Bobbin Work on the Baby Lock Aerial: The Face-Down Hooping Trick, Tension Sweet Spot, and Two Foolproof Thread Pull-Up Methods

Bobbin work is one of those techniques that makes even experienced embroiderers pause—because the rules flip. The "pretty" thread is in the bobbin, the fabric gets hooped face down, and the machine must be treated gently or it will punish you with jams.

If you’re feeling that little spike of panic (“Am I about to wreck my bobbin case?”), take a breath. Machine embroidery is an empirical science, and bobbin work is simply a matter of physics: managing drag and tension. On the Baby Lock Aerial, this technique is very doable when you follow the exact sequence Annette demonstrates—and when you understand why each step matters.

Bobbin Work Embroidery on the Baby Lock Aerial: What It Really Is (and Why It Looks Like Hand Stitching)

Bobbin work is a specialty technique where thick decorative materials—like 1/8" silk ribbon, embroidery floss, or baker’s twine—are placed in the bobbin so they appear on the fabric surface as the “top” texture.

The mechanical catch is simple: standard needles cannot accommodate these thick materials through the eye. Therefore, the decorative material must come from underneath, and you must hoop with the good side of the fabric facing down. That single detail explains most bobbin-work failures I see in studios: users forget gravity and orientation.

Annette also demonstrates why material calibration is key. Some options stitch beautifully (silk ribbon, red/white/blue baker’s twine, specialty bobbin thread), while others are high-risk:

• High Risk: Very heavy suede-like string (too bulky, creates massive drag).
• High Risk: Coarse, fuzzy jute (sheds fibers, creating internal lint buildup that damages gears).

Pro Tip: If you’re chasing a clean “hand-stitched” look, start with the materials she demonstrates (silk ribbon) before experimenting with unknown fibers.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Never Skip: Materials, Tools, and a Bobbin Plan That Prevents Mid-Design Rage

Before you hoop anything, set yourself up so the thick bobbin material can feed smoothly. In bobbin work, you cannot rely on automatic sensors; you are the sensor.

What Annette uses (and the hidden consumables you need):

• Decorative limit: 1/8" silk ribbon, velvet ribbon, baker’s twine, embroidery floss, or Inspira specialty bobbin thread.
• Stabilizer: OESD AquaMesh WashAway (crucial for structural support without bulk).
• Tools at the machine: Scissors (manual), tweezers, a multi-purpose tool (for hoop screw), a large embroidery needle (size 90/14 or larger), and “The Purple Thing” stiletto tool.
• Hidden Consumable: Fray Lock or Fray Check (mandatory for securing knots).
• Storage: Bobbin Saver II (square) or a Dritz bobbin box to keep unruly ribbons contained.

A practical note from the demo: velvet ribbon is thick enough that one bobbin doesn’t stitch for very long. Wind multiple bobbins first. There is nothing more frustrating than stopping a project to hand-wind a bobbin while your machine sits idle.

If you’re building a repeatable workflow for textured designs, this is where a hooping station for embroidery machine can quietly change your life. Because you are hooping face down, visual alignment is backwards. A station ensures consistent pressure and alignment, reducing re-hoops, puckers, and wasted stabilizer.

Prep Checklist (Physical Mise-en-place):

• Decorative material verified (stick to 1/8" width or less for first attempts).
• Multiple bobbins wound (especially if using velvet).
• Stabilizer Pre-cut: OESD AquaMesh WashAway cut larger than the hoop.
• Tool Check: Large embroidery needle and “The Purple Thing” on the table.
• Safety Check: Scissors ready for manual trimming (you will not rely on the cutter).
• Containment: A plan for storing wound bobbins so they don’t unwind (Bobbin Saver).
  

Winding 1/8" Silk Ribbon on a Bobbin: The 80% Fill Rule That Stops Case Rubbing

Annette hand-winds silk ribbon, and she’s right to do it that way. Ribbon has "memory"—it wants to twist. Twisting creates variable drag, which leads to distorted stitches.

Manual winding (silk ribbon) exactly as shown:

1. Taper the start: Trim one end of the ribbon into a slanted point.
2. Thread the core: Insert the ribbon from the inside of the bobbin to the outside through the hole.
3. Secure: Hold the tail firmly while you start winding so it doesn’t pull back inside.
4. Wind flat: Wind by hand, keeping the ribbon flat (not twisted) and applying slight finger tension. It should feel firm, not squishy.
5. Distribute evenly: Build a level wind by alternating your placement as you wrap.
6. The 80% Rule: Stop when the bobbin is about 80% full.

Why 80%? This isn't just a suggestion; it's mechanical reality. Thick materials compress under tension while winding, then "relax" and expand inside the case. An overfilled bobbin rubs against the case walls, causing friction that looks like bad tension on your finished product.

Machine Bobbin Winding for Springy Specialty Thread: Skip the Built-In Cutter or You’ll Chase Jumping Thread

For heavier or springy threads (like floss or twine), Annette uses the machine spindle—but modifies the routine to prevent tangles.

Machine winding adjustment (as demonstrated):

1. Load: Place an empty bobbin on the spindle.
2. Spool Cap Check: Put the thread on the spool pin with a spool cap that fits loosely enough to allow spin but tight enough to prevent "jumping."
3. Route: Wrap the thread around the bobbin tension disk.
4. BYPASS THE CUTTER: Do not use the built-in cutter on the winder base. Cut with handheld scissors and leave a short tail.
5. Tactile Control: Add manual finger tension as the thread feeds into the pretension disk. You should feel a slight resistance, like flossing teeth.
6. Slow Down: Wind at a reduced speed.
7. Final Trim: Trim the tail very short so it won’t hang up later in the bobbin case.

Why bypass the cutter? Heavy decorative threads can jam the small blades or spring out of the guide, causing a "bird's nest" under the winder.

Reverse Hooping on a Standard 5x7 Hoop: Face-Down Fabric, Stabilizer on Top, and a Tight Screw

Because the decorative material is in the bobbin, you must hoop for reverse embroidery. This is mentally tricky because we are trained to see the "pretty side" up.

Hooping for reverse embroidery (Annette’s method):

1. Base: Place the inner hoop on the table.
2. Stabilizer: Lay one layer of OESD AquaMesh WashAway stabilizer over the inner hoop.
3. Fabric: Place the fabric with the good side facing DOWN against the stabilizer.
4. Clamp: Press the outer hoop down over the stack.
5. Listen: Listen for the "thump" of the hoop seating fully.
6. Tighten: Tighten the hoop screw using the multi-purpose tool.

She also notes the alignment triangles on the inner and outer rings—match them. If these are misaligned, the hoop is an oval, not a circle, and your fabric will slip.

The "Hoop Burn" Problem: If you routinely work with delicate fabrics (velvet, satin, performance wear) where hoop marks create permanent damage (hoop burn), this is the moment to consider magnetic embroidery hoops as an upgrade path. Magnetic hoops use vertical clamping force rather than friction, significantly reducing "burn" marks and making the face-down hooping process much faster and safer for the fabric.

Installing the Ribbon Bobbin: Leave the Cover Off (At First) and Use “The Purple Thing” Without Unwinding Your Work

Annette installs the ribbon bobbin and deliberately leaves the bobbin cover off initially. This gives the thick ribbon more room to flow while you navigate the tension spring.

Bobbin installation (Sensory guide):

1. Insert: Drop the ribbon-wound bobbin into the case.
2. Wait: Leave the bobbin cover off.
3. Guide: Use “The Purple Thing” to push the thick ribbon through the tension spring and up through the needle plate slot.
4. Check: Pull carefully—make sure the bobbin spins counter-clockwise (usually) and you are pulling the tail, not unwinding the core.
5. Visual Confirmation: When the ribbon is seated correctly, you can typically see it traversing across the top of the bobbin before it dives under the plate.

Warning: Mechanical Safety: Keep sharp tools (large embroidery needle, awl, scissors) controlled near the needle plate. A slip can scratch the needle plate (creating burrs that shred thread later) or puncture your hand. Treat the needle plate area like a surgical zone.

Design Setup on Baby Lock IQ: Use the “B” Icon, Move the Crosshair +1 Stitch, and Block the Thread Cutter Button

On the Baby Lock Aerial, bobbin work designs are identified by a “B” icon. Annette selects those designs and notes a crucial workflow constraint: Bobbin Work must be stitched in Embroidery Mode, not Edit Mode.

Setup Checklist (The Safety Protocol):

1. Selection: Choose a design marked with the B icon.
2. Position: Move the design within the hoop if needed (Rotate/Flip only).
3. The +1 Rule: Move the green crosshair to the first stitch by using the Forward/Back key and advancing +1 stitch.
   • Why? If the crosshair is centered, you pull the bobbin thread up in the middle of the hoop. When the machine moves to the start position, it drags that loop across your fabric. By advancing to stitch #1, you pull the thread up exactly where stitching begins.
4. The Post-it Hack: Place a bright Post-it note physically over the thread cutter button.

Why the Post-it? Muscle memory is dangerous. You are used to hitting "Cut." If you hit the automatic cutter with 1/8" ribbon, you will likely jam the blade mechanism. The Post-it is your "Lockout/Tagout" safety tag.

Warning: Cutter Jam Risk: Do not activate the automatic thread cutter during bobbin work. The blades are designed for 40wt thread, not 3mm ribbon. A cutter jam usually requires a service technician to fix.

Pulling Up Thick Bobbin Thread Method 1: Needle Down/Up + “Purple Thing” Groove

Annette demonstrates a reliable pull-up method. This works best when the fabric weave allows for a slightly enlarged hole.

Method 1 (Action Sequence):

1. Hold: Grip the upper thread in your left hand (create tension).
2. Cycle: Lower the foot. Press needle up/down two times.
3. Lift: Raise the foot.
4. Tug: Pull the upper thread gently. You should see a loop of the thick bobbin material pop up.
5. Widen: Use a large embroidery needle to gently wiggle the hole where the top thread enters—just enough for the ribbon to slip through.
6. Hook: Use the square grooved end of “The Purple Thing” to catch the ribbon loop and pull it to the top.

Sensory Check: It should feel like "popping a balloon" when the ribbon comes through. If it feels like you are tearing the fabric, STOP. Switch to Method 2.

The Tension & Speed Sweet Spot: 8.0 Top Tension and 100 SPM

Here is the empirical data you need. Annette raises the upper tension drastically.

The "Safe Zone" Settings:

• Top Tension: Increase to 8.0 (Standard is usually ~4.0).
• Speed: 100 SPM (Stitches Per Minute).
• Top Thread: Use a Monofilament (like Superior Threads MonoPoly) or a matching lightweight thread.

The Physics of Why: Thick bobbin material creates massive drag. If your top tension is normal (4.0), the bobbin thread will pull the top thread down, creating loops on the surface (which is actually the bottom of your project). By cranking tension to 8.0, you force the top thread to pull that heavy ribbon tight against the fabric.

Speed Discipline: Annette stitches at 100 SPM. Most users get impatient here. If you are using advanced hooping for embroidery machine workflows for production, slowing down feels wrong. But in bobbin work, speed kills quality. High speed causes ribbon to twist and "jump" out of tension. 100-300 SPM is the "Beginner Sweet Spot."

Stitching, Securing, and Flipping the Hoop

Bobbin work is not "push button and walk away." You are the pilot.

Operation Sequence:

1. Start: Press start. Watch the first 3-4 stitches formed.
2. Intervene: Stop immediately.
3. Secure: Tie a manual knot with the starting tails.
4. Chemical Lock: Add a drop of Fray Lock to the knot.
5. Trim: Trim the tail so it doesn't get stitched over.
6. Resume: Continue stitching. Listen for a rhythmic "thump-thump" of the needle penetrating the thick assembly.

The Finish:

• Raise needle/foot. Remove hoop.
• Trim upper thread.
• Leave a LONG tail of the ribbon (3-4 inches).
• Use a large needle to pull the ribbon tail to the back (which is the top side of the hoop right now).
• Knot the ends manually on the back side and apply Fray Lock.

Setup & Operation Checklist (The "No-Fail" Guide):

• Crosshair advanced to Stitch #1 (+1) before pulling up bobbin thread.
• Thread cutter button physically blocked (Post-it note applied).
• Top Tension set to 8.0 (or highest safe setting).
• Speed reduced to 100 SPM.
• Bobbin cover plate replaced (if safe) or left off (if ribbon is too thick).
• Fray Lock applied to valid knots before final trimming.
  

Alternative Materials (Floss, Specialty Bobbin Thread, Baker’s Twine)

Annette stitches multiple samples to show material versatility:

• Inspira Specialty Thread: Smooth, consistent.
• Robison-Anton Floss: Matte finish, vivid color.
• Baker’s Twine: High texture, but higher friction.

Observation: Baker’s twine takes more force to pull up. You will feel significant resistance. Chenille Warning: A viewer asked about chenille yarn. While possible, chenille is "lint on a string." It sheds microscopically. If you use it, you must clean your bobbin case race immediately after.

For users exploring this on Baby Lock machines, magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines are a practical consideration here. When swapping between floss, twine, and ribbon, you may need to re-hoop frequently to adjust fabric tension. Magnetic hoops allow you to adjust fabric tautness without unscrewing the entire assembly.

Pulling Up Thick Bobbin Thread Method 2: The "Pre-Punch" (For Stubborn Fabrics)

Annette provides a fallback method for when the fabric weave is too tight for the needle-wiggle trick.

Method 2 (The "No Excuses" Protocol):

1. Mark: Lower the unthreaded needle into the fabric to mark the exact start point. Use a Frixion pen to dot it.
2. Remove: Take the hoop off the machine.
3. Punch: Use a clock tool/awl (or an ice pick in a pinch) to punch a clean hole at the mark.
4. Reset: Return the hoop to the machine.
5. Calibrate: Go back -1 stitch to align the needle exactly over the hole.
6. Pull: Needle down/up. The bobbin thread should slide effortlessly through the pre-punched hole.
   

Troubleshooting Bobbin Work: Symptom -> Cause -> Fix

Do not guess. Use this table to diagnose issues instantly.

Stabilizer Decision Tree for Bobbin Work

Annette uses OESD AquaMesh WashAway. Here is how to choose based on your fabric.

Decision Tree (Fabric → Stabilizer):

• Is the fabric stable/woven (e.g., Denim, Canvas)?
  • YES: Use 1 layer OESD AquaMesh WashAway.
• Is the fabric stretchy or "spongy" (e.g., Knits, Velvet)?
  • YES: You need stability minus bulk. Use 1 layer Sticky WashAway OR 1 layer Cutaway (if the back will be covered) + Basting Stitch.
• Is the bobbin material very heavy (e.g., bulky yarn)?
  • YES: Avoid dense stabilizers. Use a lighter tear-away or wash-away to reduce total friction.

The Upgrade Path: Faster Hooping and Better Consistency

Once you master the technique, the bottleneck shifts from "how to stitch" to "how to hoop." Face-down hooping is prone to misalignment and wrist fatigue.

When to Upgrade:

• Trigger: You are noticing "shiny rings" (hoop burn) on your velvet or satin projects.
• Trigger: You are spending more time hooping than stitching.
• Solution Level 1: Use a magnetic hooping station to guarantee alignment.
• Solution Level 2: Switch to magnetic hoops for embroidery. By using magnetic force, you eliminate the need to crush the fabric fibers within two plastic rings, solving the hoop burn issue while securing the reversed fabric instantly.

Warning: Magnetic Safety: Magnetic hoops contain powerful Neodymium magnets.
1. Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone.
2. Medical: Keep away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices.

The Final Reveal

Annette jokes that watching bobbin work is like watching paint dry—it's slow (100 SPM). But when you flip that hoop over, the result is impossible to replicate with standard embroidery. It looks dimensional, hand-crafted, and expensive.

Follow the 80% winding rule, the 8.0 tension rule, and the Face-Down hooping rule, and you will move from frustration to perfection.

FAQ

• Q: On the Baby Lock Aerial, why must fabric be hooped face down for bobbin work embroidery?
  A: Hoop the fabric with the good side facing down because the decorative ribbon/floss is coming from the bobbin and must show on the fabric surface.
  • Place stabilizer on the inner hoop first, then place fabric good-side DOWN, then clamp with the outer hoop and tighten the screw.
  • Match the alignment triangles on the hoop rings so the hoop seats correctly and does not slip.
  • Success check: the fabric feels evenly taut and the hoop seats with a firm “thump,” not a soft or uneven clamp.
  • If it still fails, re-hoop and confirm the design is a Baby Lock Aerial bobbin work design (marked with the “B” icon) before stitching.
• Q: How do I wind 1/8" silk ribbon for Baby Lock Aerial bobbin work without the bobbin rubbing in the bobbin case?
  A: Hand-wind the ribbon flat and stop at about 80% bobbin fill to prevent expansion and case rubbing.
  • Taper the ribbon end, thread it from inside the bobbin to the outside hole, and hold the tail firmly to lock the start.
  • Wind by hand with light finger tension, keeping the ribbon flat (no twist) and distributing the wind evenly.
  • Success check: the wound ribbon looks smooth and flat (not ropey), and the bobbin does not feel “overstuffed” or squishy.
  • If it still fails, unwind and re-wind looser and flatter, then verify the ribbon width/thickness is within what the machine can feed.
• Q: On the Baby Lock Aerial, what top tension and speed settings are a safe starting point for bobbin work with ribbon or twine?
  A: Use a high top tension (8.0) and slow speed (about 100 SPM) to control drag from thick bobbin materials.
  • Set top tension to 8.0 and reduce speed to 100 SPM before the first stitch.
  • Use monofilament or a lightweight top thread so the top thread can pull the thick bobbin material tight.
  • Success check: the decorative bobbin material lays cleanly on the show side with no loose top-thread loops showing on the surface.
  • If it still fails, increase top tension further within safe limits and re-check that the bobbin was not overfilled and the ribbon is not twisted.
• Q: How do I prevent a Baby Lock Aerial automatic thread cutter jam during bobbin work with 1/8" ribbon?
  A: Do not use the automatic thread cutter during bobbin work—trim manually and physically block the cutter button.
  • Place a bright Post-it note over the thread cutter button to prevent accidental presses.
  • Keep scissors at the machine and cut tails manually (do not rely on the cutter).
  • Success check: the machine completes stitching without a cutter error or sudden blade noise/stop when trimming would normally occur.
  • If it still fails, stop immediately and avoid further cutter attempts; bobbin work ribbon can require service if the cutter mechanism jams.
• Q: On the Baby Lock Aerial, what is the safest way to pull up thick bobbin ribbon at the exact start stitch without dragging a loop across the fabric?
  A: Advance the Baby Lock Aerial crosshair to stitch #1 before pulling up the bobbin material, then use needle down/up and a tool-assisted pull-up.
  • In Embroidery Mode, use Forward/Back to move to +1 stitch so the start point is correct before pulling up the bobbin thread.
  • Hold the upper thread, cycle needle down/up twice, then tug the upper thread to bring up a loop; use “The Purple Thing” to hook the loop.
  • Success check: the ribbon/floss loop pops up exactly at the design start point, not from the hoop center.
  • If it still fails, switch to the pre-punch method: mark the needle point, remove hoop, punch a clean hole with an awl, then return and align by going back -1 stitch.
• Q: For Baby Lock Aerial bobbin work, what are the most common causes of top thread loops, ribbon not pulling up, and twisted texture—and what are the quick fixes?
  A: These symptoms are usually tension/drag issues—correct the specific cause instead of guessing.
  • Fix top-thread loops: raise top tension to 8.0+ and keep speed low so the top thread pulls the heavy bobbin material tight.
  • Fix ribbon not pulling up: use the pre-punch method with an awl/ice pick so the thick material can pass through tight weaves.
  • Fix uneven/twisted texture: re-wind the bobbin by hand, keep ribbon flat, and stop at 80% fill to avoid rubbing and distortion.
  • Success check: stitch lines look consistent and textured (not ropey), and pull-up happens with a clean “pop,” not fabric tearing.
  • If it still fails, change to a lower-risk bobbin material (like 1/8" silk ribbon or specialty bobbin thread) and clean lint if using fuzzy fibers.
• Q: What safety precautions should be followed when using an awl/large needle near the Baby Lock Aerial needle plate for bobbin work setup?
  A: Treat the needle plate area like a controlled work zone to avoid plate scratches (burrs) and hand injuries.
  • Hold sharp tools (awl, large embroidery needle, scissors) deliberately and keep fingers out of the needle path when cycling needle up/down.
  • Use tools only to guide the thick bobbin material through the tension spring/slot—do not pry against the needle plate.
  • Success check: the needle plate remains smooth (no nicks), and thread/ribbon feeds without sudden shredding or snagging later.
  • If it still fails, stop and inspect for burrs; a scratched plate can continue damaging thread until corrected per the machine manual or by a technician.
• Q: When should embroidery users switch from a standard screw hoop to magnetic embroidery hoops for repeated face-down hooping and hoop burn prevention?
  A: If face-down hooping causes hoop burn, frequent re-hoops, or slow alignment, magnetic embroidery hoops are often the next practical upgrade.
  • Diagnose the trigger: look for shiny rings/marks on velvet, satin, or performance fabrics, or repeated fabric slipping/misalignment.
  • Try Level 1 first: improve consistency with a hooping station and careful alignment/pressure control.
  • Upgrade to Level 2: use magnetic hoops to reduce friction-based clamp marks and speed up repeated re-hooping during material swaps.
  • Success check: fabric shows fewer permanent hoop marks and hooping time drops without increased puckering.
  • If it still fails, review stabilizer choice and hooping tension, and follow magnetic safety rules (pinch hazard; keep away from pacemakers/implanted devices).