Flip-and-Fold ITH Striped Kiss Purse: A Calm, No-Drama Way to Nail the Zipper, Lining, and Corners

If your last In-The-Hoop (ITH) pouch turned into a tangled, bulky, zipper-snagging mess, you’re not alone—and you’re not “bad at embroidery.” You likely just ran into the physics of machine embroidery without an engineer’s roadmap.

This Striped Kiss Purse project looks deceptively simple, but it is a masterclass in alignment. It stacks multiple layers, demands precise notch matching, and forces you to sew dangerously close to metal zipper teeth.

I’m going to walk you through the exact flow shown in the video, but I’ve rebuilt the instructions with an "Old-Hand" architecture. We aren't just going to push buttons; we are going to focus on what to prep before you power on, what the sound of your machine finds you, and how to verify you are safe before you commit to a stitch line.

Pick Your Look First: “Fussy Cut Panel” vs. “Flip and Fold Stripes” (So You Don’t Build the Wrong Pieces)

The project gives you two valid exterior options. Decide this now, because your cutting list changes immediately.

• Option A: Fussy Cutting. You place a feature fabric (a specific character or floral motif) onto placement stitches so the “hero” image lands exactly center-stage. You then add stippling and a contrast top band.
• Option B: Flip and Fold Stripes. You build a custom striped textile inside the hoop by stitching seams, flipping fabric open, and finger-pressing.

The Golden Rule of Prep: Regardless of the style, the structural requirements remain identical. Do not touch your machine until you have physically laid out:

1. Exterior Panel A (Front)
2. Exterior Panel B (Back)
3. Lining A
4. Lining B

Note: If you own a Brother machine and find yourself avoiding ITH projects because the standard hoop keeps popping open with thick layers, this is a prime scenario where a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop can save the day. It allows you to clamp variable thickness without adjusting screws, reducing the "hoop burn" that ruins delicate cottons.

The “Hidden Prep” That Prevents 6-Hour Pouches: Stabilizer, Batting, Notches, and a Clean Work Surface

A lot of “it was a disaster” outcomes come from starting with vague prep: wrong stabilizer behavior, missing center marks, or pieces cut close with no margin.

The Physics of Stability (Expert Reality Check)

ITH projects behave like a tug-of-war between needle penetration and fabric stability. The video suggests Tear-away Stabilizer.

• Why? It ensures clean removal so the inside of your pouch doesn't look like a construction site.
• The Risk: Tear-away is weaker than Cutaway. If you handle the hoop roughly, it will distort.
• The Fix: Use two layers of medium-weight tear-away. It should feel stiff, like cardstock, not flimsy like tissue paper.

Batting Note

The channel confirms using viscose batting, roughly 175 gsm. This provides loft without the density that breaks needles.

The "Hidden Consumables" List

Before you start, grab these items that beginners often forget:

• Washi Tape or Painter's Tape: (Scotch tape leaves goopy residue; don't use it).
• Curved Appliqué Scissors: For trimming threads inside the hoop.
• 75/11 Sharp Needle: Ballpoint needles can struggle with the multiple layers of stabilizer + zipper tape + batting.

Prep Checklist: The "Go/No-Go" Flight Check

• Cut Two Exterior Panels: Whether fussy cut or striped.
• Cut Two Lining Pieces: Must be the exact same size as the exterior panels.
• The "GPS" Notches: Snip a tiny center notch at the top edge of every piece (linings and exteriors). If you skip this, your pouch will be crooked.
• Hoop Tightness: Hoop your two layers of stabilizer. Tap it. It should sound like a drum skin. If it sags, redo it.
• Clear the Deck: Clear your table. You will be flipping the hoop upside down constantly; you don't want to drag your project through thread snippings or coffee cups.

If hooping perfectly feels impossible or your hands hurt trying to tighten the screw, focusing on your hooping for embroidery machine technique—specifically keeping the inner ring flat while tightening—is the single highest-ROI skill you can learn.

Fussy Cutting Without “Decapitating” the Print: Placement Lines That Actually Mean Something

In the fussy-cut option, the accuracy of your "Hero" placement is visual.

The "Headless Horseman" Risk: The instructor notes that the top band construction will eat up stitch area. You will lose design space at the top.

Practical Action:

1. Run the placement stitch.
2. Hover your fabric over the hoop.
3. Visual Check: Look at where the top seam will fall. Is your character’s head below that line? If not, slide the fabric down. It is acceptable if the motif is slightly off-center mathematically, as long as it is visually pleasing.

Flip-and-Fold Stripes That Stay Flat: The Seam Allowance Rule That Controls Bulk

Flip-and-fold is fast once you trust the rhythm, but it punishes sloppy trimming.

The Procedure:

1. Placement: Place strip face down (Right Sides Together).
2. Stitch: Run the seam line.
3. Flip & Press: Flip the fabric open. Sensory Cue: Use your fingernail or a seam roller to creat a sharp crease. It must lie flat.
4. Trim: This is critical. Trim the excess seam allowance underneath to about 1/4 inch.

Troubleshooting: The "Wobbly" Satin Stitch You might notice the satin stitches looking slightly uneven over the stripe seams. This is normal physics—the needle is deflecting off the bulk of the fold. Don't panic; it usually blends in once the bag is turned. Pro Tip: Slow your machine speed down (e.g., to 600 SPM) over these ridges to give the needle time to penetrate straight.

Zipper Installation In the Hoop: The Washi-Tape Method (and the One Detail That Saves Your Needle)

This is the "Fear Stage" for most ITH makers—stitching close to metal teeth.

The Protocol:

1. Stitch zipper placement lines.
2. Place the zipper exactly between (not on) the lines.
3. Tape it Down: Tape the top and bottom ends generously.
4. Zipper Pull Hygiene: Move the zipper pull to the Top/Left. If you leave it in the middle, the presser foot will hit it and ruin the project.

The "Click" Check: Before you hit start, lower your needle manually using the handwheel. Does it graze the teeth? If you hear a metal-on-metal click, stop. You may need to shift the zipper slightly or change to a narrower foot if your machine allows.

If you struggle with zipper tape bowing or shifting while you tape it, magnetic embroidery hoops are incredibly effective here. The magnets clamp the zipper tape firmly along the entire length without the distortion caused by standard inner rings pushing against the fabric grain.

The “Sandwich” Moment: Aligning Lining Notches and Exterior Panels So the Zipper Doesn’t Twist

This is where the notches you cut in step 1 become your GPS.

The Video’s Method:

1. Take the hoop OFF the machine.
2. Turn it upside down.
3. Place Lining A face down (Right Side against the stabilizer).
4. Align: Match the lining’s center notch to the hoop’s drawn center mark on the stabilizer.
5. Tape the corners securely.
6. Flip hoop right side up.
7. Place Exterior Front face down (Right Side against zipper). Align notches.

Checkpoint: Before stitching, look at the sandwich from the side. Are the edges parallel? If the lining is crooked now, your finished pouch will be twisted.

Under-Stitching the Lining: The One Row That Stops Zipper Snags Forever

Under-stitching is a "Pro" detail often skipped in cheap patterns. It stitches the lining seam allowance to the lining itself, forcing the fabric to roll away from the zipper teeth.

Why do this? Without it, the lining floats near the zipper. One day, you zip the purse quickly, the lining gets chewed up in the teeth, and the purse is ruined.

Setup Checklist (Crucial Safety Stop):

• Clear the Path: Fold the lining back and tape it.
• Clear the Front: Fold the exterior front back so you don't sew it to the lining.
• Visual Scan: Can you see the entire stitch path? Is any rogue piece of fabric curling under the needle?

If you are doing this repeatedly for a craft show, using a hooping station for embroidery machine ensures your stabilizer starts square every time, making alignment of these flipped layers much more consistent.

Flip-and-Fold Panel Finishing: Stippling, Contrast Band, and the “2–3 mm” Trim

For the striped version, you will now stitch the stippling (quilting texture) and the top band.

The "Play" Factor: The instructor notes that as you get near the edge, the presser foot might push a "wave" of fabric ahead of it.

• The Fix: Use a stiletto or the tip of your tweezers (carefully!) to hold the fabric down as the foot approaches the edge.
• Trim Spec: The video recommends trimming batting/excess to 2–3 mm from the stippling line to keep the seam allowance thin.

D-Ring Tab Add-On: Make It Optional, Make It Safe

Don’t sew the D-ring to the lining! This is a classic error.

The Process:

1. Make a small fabric tab with a D-ring.
2. Tape it to the Exterior layer only, facing inward.
3. Tape the Metal: Put a piece of tape over the metal D-ring itself. This prevents the metal foot from catching the metal ring and snapping a needle.

Warning: Mechanical Danger.
Never put your fingers near the needle to hold that tiny tab while the machine is running. Use tape. If the machine hits the metal ring, the needle can shatter, sending shards toward your eyes. Always wear glasses when observing machine embroidery.

Final Assembly Seams: The Pivot Pin Trick That Makes the Lining Fit Neatly

This step transforms the project from flat layers into a 3D object.

The "Nesting" Physics: If you sew the exterior and the lining with the exact same seam allowance, the lining will be too big. It will crumple inside the bag.

• The Trick: The video suggests placing a pin at the start of the side seam.
• Exterior Seam: Sew at 1/2 inch.
• Lining Seam: Pivot at the pin and widen the seam allowance to 5/8 inch.
• Result: A slightly smaller lining that nests perfectly inside the exterior.

If you are using a larger machine to batch these, an embroidery machine 6x10 hoop gives you much more clearance for these final seams, preventing the foot from hitting the hoop edge during the wide lining stitches.

Boxing Corners Without Bulky Lumps: Seam-on-Seam Alignment

Boxing corners gives the bag a flat bottom.

1. Open the pre-cut corners.
2. Seam-on-Seam: Smash the side seam directly onto the bottom seam. They must nest.
3. Sensory Check: Pinch it. You should feel the ridges of the seams locking together. If they are offset, the bag will twist.

Turning, Closing the Lining Hole, and the “Light Iron Touch” Finish

1. The Birth: Turn the bag through the lining hole. Push corners out gently with a chopstick (not scissors, or you'll poke through).
2. Close the Gap: Fold the raw edges of the lining hole inward and stitch closed (machine edge stitch or hand ladder stitch).
3. The Press: Iron the bag—but gently. You want to set the shape, not flatten the batting into a pancake.

When It Goes Sideways: Fast Troubleshooting for ITH Problems

A Simple Decision Tree: Materials Selection

Don't guess. Use this logic flow:

• Standard Cotton Fabric + Standard Use:
  • System: 2 Layers of Tear-away Stabilizer + Viscose Batting.
• Stretchy Knits or Heavy Canvas:
  • System: Swap one layer of Tear-away for Cutaway mesh. (Warning: Cutaway stays in the bag forever, so only use if stability is critical).
• Fabric Keeps Slipping/Hoop Burn Issues:
  • System: Upgrade toolset. Many users find success using embroidery hoops magnetic to clamp slippery or thick sandwiches without distortion.

The Upgrade Path: When to Buy Better Tools?

If you are making one pouch for fun, your standard equipment is fine. If you are making 20 for a craft fair, efficiency matters.

Scenario 1: The "Hoop Burn" Struggle

• Trigger: You spend five minutes just trying to get the hoop screw tight enough, or you see white stress marks on your dark fabrics.
• Solution Level 1: Wrap your inner hoop rings in bias tape for grip.
• Solution Level 2: magnetic embroidery hoops for brother (or your specific brand). These use magnetic force to clamp straight down, eliminating the friction burn of traditional "push-in" hoops.

Scenario 2: The Alignment Nightmare

• Trigger: Your linings are consistently crooked despite proper notching.
• Solution Level 1: Use more Washi tape and double-check notches.
• Solution Level 2: A hoop master embroidery hooping station. This hardware helps you achieve standardized placement on the stabilizer every single time, removing human error from the "Sandwich" step.

Warning: Magnet Safety
Magnetic hoops use industrial-strength magnets (Neodymium).
1. Pinch Hazard: They can snap together with bone-crushing force. Keep fingers clear.
2. Medical Safety: Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
3. Electronics: Do not place standard credit cards or mechanical watches directly on the magnets.

Operation Checklist (The Final "Don't Waste Fabric" Scan)

• Zipper Status: The metal pull is taped securely at the top/left, completely out of the stitch zone.
• Notch Check: Lining center notch matches hoop center mark.
• Under-stitching: Completed? (If not, your zipper will snag later).
• Seam Logic: Exterior sewn at 1/2", Lining pivoted to 5/8" to ensure fit.
• Corner Box: Side and bottom seams feel locked together (Nest check).
• Lining Closure: Hole stitched shut after turning.

A Final Note for the "My First One Failed" Crowd

That comment is common because ITH is not just embroidery—it is blind construction. You cannot see the lining while you sew the back.

If you slow down at the notch alignment, strictly respect the "click check" near the zipper, and verify your layers before pressing start, your second pouch will look like it was bought in a boutique. Trust the notches, not your eyes.

FAQ

• Q: How can a Brother embroidery machine operator stop an ITH zipper pouch hoop from popping open when the hoop is loaded with stabilizer, zipper tape, fabric, and batting?
  A: Use a more controlled hooping setup first; thick “sandwich” layers commonly force standard hoops to spring open.
  • Hooping action: Hoop only the stabilizer first (two layers of medium-weight tear-away), then add zipper/fabric layers by tape as the steps require.
  • Adjust action: Loosen the hoop screw slightly before hooping thick final layers so the inner ring does not fight you.
  • Upgrade option: Switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop when thickness varies and the standard ring will not clamp reliably.
  • Success check: The hooped stabilizer should sound like a drum when tapped and the hoop should not flex open when handled.
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop with two tear-away layers that feel “cardstock-stiff,” and reduce handling/twisting of the hooped unit between steps.
• Q: What is the correct stabilizer and batting setup for an ITH zipper pouch when the design calls for tear-away stabilizer and viscose batting (about 175 gsm)?
  A: A safe starting point is two layers of medium-weight tear-away plus viscose batting around 175 gsm to balance clean removal and stability.
  • Stabilizer action: Stack two layers of tear-away so the hoop feels firm, not flimsy.
  • Batting action: Use viscose batting for loft without excessive density that can increase needle stress.
  • Handling action: Avoid rough hoop handling because tear-away can distort more easily than cutaway.
  • Success check: The hooped stabilizer should feel stiff and stay square during flips/taping steps without rippling.
  • If it still fails: For tricky fabrics (often knits/heavy canvas), swap one tear-away layer for cutaway mesh (it may remain inside the pouch), and confirm the embroidery machine manual supports the choice.
• Q: How can an ITH zipper pouch maker verify correct hoop tension during hooping for embroidery machine work before stitching placement lines?
  A: Re-hoop until the stabilizer is drum-tight; poor hoop tension is a common root cause of distortion and misalignment.
  • Tap test action: Tap the hooped stabilizer like a drumhead and redo it if it sags.
  • Technique action: Keep the inner ring flat while tightening so the ring seats evenly.
  • Workspace action: Clear the table so flipping the hoop does not drag the project through debris that can shift layers.
  • Success check: The stabilizer surface stays flat with no soft “dip” when pressed and no slack sound when tapped.
  • If it still fails: Slow down and re-hoop from scratch; don’t “save” a bad hooping because every later alignment step depends on it.
• Q: How can an ITH zipper pouch maker prevent the lining from twisting by aligning lining center notches and exterior panel notches during the hoop “sandwich” step?
  A: Use center notches as GPS and confirm parallel edges before stitching; this is the most reliable way to prevent a twisted zipper pouch.
  • Marking action: Snip a small center notch at the top edge of every piece (both linings and both exteriors).
  • Alignment action: Match the lining center notch to the stabilizer’s drawn center mark, then tape corners securely before flipping.
  • Verification action: Look from the side and confirm edges are parallel before pressing start.
  • Success check: The layered “sandwich” edges look straight and even, not skewed, when viewed from the hoop edge.
  • If it still fails: Add more tape control and re-seat the lining by the notch rather than by “eyeballing” the fabric edge.
• Q: How can an ITH zipper pouch maker stop a zipper pouch lining from snagging in the zipper teeth using under-stitching?
  A: Add one under-stitching row while the layers are controlled in the hoop; it forces the lining to roll away from the zipper.
  • Prep action: Fold the lining back and tape it so it cannot curl into the stitch path.
  • Clear-path action: Fold the exterior front back so it does not get sewn to the lining by mistake.
  • Stitch action: Run the under-stitching row with full visibility of the stitch path before continuing assembly.
  • Success check: After stitching, the lining naturally pulls away from the zipper edge instead of floating near the teeth.
  • If it still fails: Stop and visually scan again—any hidden fabric edge near the needle path must be taped back before re-stitching.
• Q: What should an ITH zipper pouch maker do when the embroidery machine needle breaks on a metal zipper during in-the-hoop zipper installation?
  A: Stop immediately and re-center the zipper between placement lines; needle breaks commonly come from a wide foot or a zipper that drifted toward the teeth.
  • Placement action: Stitch the zipper placement lines, then place the zipper centered between the lines (not on top of them).
  • Control action: Tape the zipper ends generously and move the zipper pull to the top/left so the foot cannot strike it.
  • Safety check action: Handwheel the needle down before stitching; stop if any metal-on-metal “click” is heard.
  • Success check: The needle clears the zipper teeth silently during the manual handwheel drop.
  • If it still fails: Use a narrower foot if the embroidery machine setup allows, and re-tape to prevent zipper tape bowing/shifting.
• Q: What needle type helps reduce “drunk-looking” satin stitch when an ITH zipper pouch design stitches over thick folded seams, and what machine speed change can help?
  A: Switch to a 75/11 sharp needle and slow the embroidery speed over seam “humps”; needle deflection over bulk is a common cause of uneven satin.
  • Needle action: Install a 75/11 sharp needle (ballpoint may struggle through stabilizer + zipper tape + batting layers).
  • Speed action: Slow down over thick ridges (often around 500–600 SPM) to give the needle time to penetrate straight.
  • Trimming action: Trim seam allowance underneath to about 1/4 inch in flip-and-fold areas to reduce bulk.
  • Success check: Satin columns look more even as the needle crosses seam intersections, with fewer visible wiggles.
  • If it still fails: Re-check seam trimming and reduce bulk wherever the satin crosses layered folds.
• Q: What are the key safety precautions for an ITH zipper pouch maker when taping a metal D-ring tab or using industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Treat metal hardware and strong magnets as mechanical hazards; use tape and keep hands and sensitive devices away from danger zones.
  • D-ring safety action: Tape the D-ring tab to the exterior layer only, and tape over the metal ring so the presser foot cannot catch it.
  • Hand safety action: Never hold a small tab near the needle while the machine is running; use tape instead.
  • Magnet safety action: Keep fingers clear of magnet pinch points; magnets can snap together forcefully.
  • Medical/electronics safety action: Keep magnets at least 6 inches from pacemakers or insulin pumps and away from credit cards/mechanical watches.
  • Success check: The machine stitch path is clear of metal contact points and there is no risk of the foot striking hardware during stitching.
  • If it still fails: Stop the machine, remove the hoop, and re-secure hardware with tape before restarting—do not “power through” near metal.