Wilcom Complex Fill vs. Complex Fill with Rotation: Digitize Irregular Shapes, Holes, and Angles Without Gaps

Difference Between Complex Fill and Complex Turning

In the world of Wilcom EmbroideryStudio, Complex Fill and Complex Fill with Rotation (Turning) are close cousins, but they solve two completely different "real-world stitch" problems. As a digitized design moves from screen to machine, you must predict how light reflects off the thread.

• Use Complex Fill (Static) when the object should read as one solid, consistent plane (like the floor of a building or a flat background). The light catches the thread at a single angle.
• Use Complex Fill with Rotation (Flowing) when the object needs movement—think of muscle fibers, flowing water, or flower petals where the stitch angle must twist to follow the geometry.

In the video, the instructor frames these tools as the go-to choice for irregular, organic, or polygonal shapes—think puddles, clouds, and any outline that isn't a simple rectangle.

The "Sensory Check" for Choosing: Look at the shape you are about to digitize.

• Visual: If you want it to look like a flat, calm field of Tatami (like a carpet), use Complex Fill.
• Visual: If you want the stitches to "hug" the curves (like a ribbon wrapping around a pole), use Rotation.

Expert Mindset: The software can calculate the math, but your stitch-out quality is governed by physics. The fabric will push and pull. The complex turning tool manages this tension better on curved shapes by distributing the pull across different angles, whereas a single angle might distort the fabric in one direction.

How to Digitize the Perimeter: Straight vs Curved Points

Step 1 — Select the tool, fill type, and color

1. Click the Complex Filling icon on the left toolbar.
2. On the top toolbar, choose a fill type (the video uses Tatami, which provides a dense, flat coverage).
3. Pick a high-contrast color from the bottom palette so you can see your work clearly.

Checkpoint (Visual): Your cursor transforms into a precise crosshair on the workspace grid. You are ready to draw.

Step 2 — Build the outline using Left-click vs. Right-click

This is the core "muscle memory" skill for all Wilcom digitizers. Repeat this mantra: "Left for Linear, Right for Round."

• Left-click places points that create straight segments (Hard corners, sharp turns).
• Right-click places points that create curved segments (Smooth arcs, organic flows).
• Alternate them to trace complex perimeters.

Sensory Anchor (Auditory): You should develop a rhythm. A sharp click for corners, and a softer clack for curves. If you hear a rapid-fire clicking, you are likely placing too many nodes. Let the software calculate the curve between points; you don't need a node every millimeter.

Checkpoint (Visual): You should see a wireframe outline (the "skeleton" of your embroidery) connecting nodes as you place them.

Quick fix for a common mistake

If your finger slips and you drop a node in no-man's-land:

• Do not panic or restart.
• Press BackSpace on your keyboard to delete only the last node.

Warning: RSI and Ergonomic Safety. Digitizing involves thousands of repetitive micro-movements. Keep your non-mouse hand resting near the Esc and BackSpace keys. Do not "claw" the mouse. Tens of thousands of professional digitizers suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome; keep your wrist neutral.

Closing the Object: Auto-Connect vs Manual Entry Points

Wilcom utilizes a sequence of "Enter" key presses to confirm different stages of object creation. You can speed this up (Auto) or slow it down (Manual).

Option A — Automatic closure (The "Chaos-Friendly" Method)

After you finish outlining the perimeter:

1. Do not manually try to click the first point again to close the loop.
2. Press Enter three times.

What is happening inside the "Black Box"?

• Enter 1: Closes the shape.
• Enter 2: Generates the stitches (accepting defaults for holes).
• Enter 3: Accepts the default stitch angle and Entry/Exit points.

Checkpoint (Visual): The object fills immediately with stitches.

Option B — Manual closure (The Control Freak Method)

Instead of mashing Enter:

1. Press Enter once to close the object.
2. Stop. Look at the bottom left of the screen. The software prompts you: "Enter Point 1 of Hole 1".
3. This allows you to cut holes or manually set the Start (Entry) and End (Exit) points.

Expert Advice: If you are stitching consistent production runs, use Manual Closure. You want to control exactly where the machine stops (Exit point) to ensure the trim is hidden or the travel run to the next object is short.

A note on start/end behavior (Nearest Connection)

The video notes the "Nearest Connection" setting.

• On (Default): The software calculates the shortest distance to the next object.
• Off: You must tell the machine where to start and stop.

Troubleshooting Note: If the software seems to "ignore" your start point, check if 'Nearest Connection' is overriding you.

Creating Holes and Defining Stitch Angles

Manual hole creation during object creation

If you are digitizing a donut, you need a hole.

1. Press Enter once (Outline closes).
2. Digitize the internal shape (the hole) inside the main shape.
3. Press Enter (Confirm the hole).
4. Press Enter again (To say "I have no more holes").
5. Click Point A then Point B to draw a line defining the Stitch Angle.

Checkpoint (Visual): You see a line cutting across your shape. This line represents the direction the needle will travel.

Editing mode is where professionals win time

The instructor emphasizes: Digitize fast, Edit slow. It is often faster to create a rough shape and then press H (Reshape) to drag nodes into perfection, rather than trying to click perfectly the first time.

Expert Insight (The Physics of Angles): Stitch angle changes the "Push/Pull" of fabric.

• Threads pull the fabric in (shortening the object in the direction of stitches).
• Threads push the fabric out (widening the object perpendicular to stitches).

Fixing Embroidery Gaps with the Overlap Setting

Complex shapes are prone to Counter-Filling Gaps. This is the nightmare scenario: the design looks perfect on screen, but on the machine, you see white fabric showing through between two sections of color.

The key fix: Overlap (Software Solution)

The video’s troubleshooting is direct:

• If you see gaps where segments meet, increase Overlap in Object Properties.
• Beginner Sweet Spot: 3–5 rows. (Less than 3 risks gaps; more than 8 creates hard lumps).

Checkpoint: Visually, the blocks of color will "crash" into each other on screen. This is good.

Why Overlap works (The Practical Physics)

When a needle penetrates fabric 1000 times a minute, the fabric shrinks. It literally pulls away from the needle.

• The Screen: A mathematical vacuum. No friction, no shrinking.
• The Reality: Fabric is organic. It moves.
• The Fix: Overlap forces the stitches to extend past the meeting point, so when the fabric shrinks back, the gap is still covered.

Advanced settings mentioned

• Typical Angle (15°): A fallback angle for complex turns.
• Run Allowance: Keeps travel runs away from the edge so they don't poke out.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Hooping Strategy

Software settings like Overlap can only compensate for about 1mm of movement. If your gaps are wider, the issue is Physical, not Digital. Use this tree:

1) Is the fabric stable (Denim, Canvas)?

• Yes: Use Medium Tear-Away. Test with standard overlap (2 rows).

2) Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt, Polo)?

• Yes: YOU MUST USE Cut-Away Stabilizer. Tear-away will result in gaps no matter what your overlap setting is.

3) Are you seeing "Hoop Burn" (shiny ring marks) or struggling to hoop straight?

• Yes: This is a mechanical holding issue. Traditional hoops force you to pull fabric, distorting the grain. When you un-hoop, the fabric snaps back, creating gaps.

The Hardware Solution: If you are constantly fighting gaps on slippery or thick items, many professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. Unlike friction hoops, magnetic frames hold the fabric flat without forcing you to stretch it. This minimizes the "snap-back" effect, meaning your "Overlap" settings in Wilcom will actually work as intended.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Strong magnetic hoops (like the MaggieFrame) are industrial tools. They have a pinch force strong enough to bruise fingers. Keep them away from pacemakers (maintain 6-inch distance) and keep credit cards/phones away to avoid data wiping.

Prep

Success is 80% preparation, 20% operation. Before clicking the mouse, check your reality.

Hidden Consumables & Prep Checks

• The Right Needle: Is your needle sharp? A burred needle will cut fabric threads, causing gaps that look like digitizing errors.
• The Right Bottom: Do you have the correct stabilizer (Cut-away for knits, Tear-away for wovens)?
• The Hooping Plan: If you are running a test, ensure you have a variety of machine embroidery hoops available. A hoop that is too large for the design allows too much fabric vibration (flagging), which causes registration loss. Always use the smallest hoop that fits the design.

Prep Checklist

• Software: Selected "Complex Fill" (Static) or "Turning" (Flowing)?
• Hardware: Is the hoop size correct? (Smallest possible = Best quality).
• Environment: Is your workspace lit well? Do you have your "Enter" counts memorized?
• Safety: Are your hands clean? (Oil from fingers ruins screens and fabric).

Setup

Set up your creation workflow (Controlled Chaos)

A reliable setup for intermediate digitizers is:

1. Draft Mode: Use Auto-Closure (Enter x3) to get the shapes down fast.
2. Edit Mode: Go back and tweak angles and start points.
3. Physical Test: Do not trust the screen. Run a sample.

If you are doing this commercially, consistency is key. A hooping station for machine embroidery ensures that every shirt is hooped at the exact same tension. If your tension varies from shirt to shirt, your "Overlap" settings will work on Shirt A but fail on Shirt B.

Setup Checklist

• Input Method: Verified Left-click (Sharp) vs Right-click (Smooth) behavior.
• Parameters: Set Overlap to 3 rows as a starting safety net.
• View: Zoom is set to 100% (1:1) to check density, then 600% to check nodes.
• Backup: Saved a copy of the file before applying complex parameter changes.

Operation

Step-by-step: Complex Fill (Static)

1. Select Complex Fill.
2. Choose Tatami.
3. Trace shape (Left/Right clicks).
4. Mistake? Press BackSpace.
5. Action: Press Enter 3 times.
6. Sensory Check: Listen for the "Thump" of the enter key and watch the shape fill instantly with color.

Expected Outcome: A clean, flat field of stitches. Best for backgrounds or text.

Step-by-step: Complex Fill with Rotation (Flowing)

1. Select Complex Fill with Rotation.
2. Trace shape.
3. Action: Press Enter once.
4. Action: Follow prompts to draw flow lines (vectors) through the shape.
5. Action: Press Enter to finish.

Expected Outcome: A shape where stitches turn corners like a masterful driver. Best for organic shapes.

Converting between the two

• Select a Complex Fill object -> Click Rotation Tool -> Enter x2.
• Select Rotation object -> Click Complex Tool -> Enter x1.

Operation Checklist

• Rhythm: Are you clicking cleanly? (No double clicks).
• Correction: Digitize -> Edit -> Test. Never skip the Edit phase.
• Verification: Use the "Stitch Player" (Shift+R) to watch a virtual sew-out before saving.
• Documentation: Note down which Overlap settings worked for which fabric.

Troubleshooting

When the machine stops or the result looks bad, use this logic flow: Physical -> Mechanical -> Digital.

When the "Software Fix" isn't enough

If you have increased Overlap to 5+ rows and still see gaps, stop adjusting the software. You have a stability issue.

• Consumable Check: Are you using 2 layers of Cut-away?
• Tool Check: Is the hoop slipping? Plastic hoops wear out.
• Workflow Upgrade: For repeatable quality, consistent placement is vital. A hooping station allows you to standardizing the placement, while a hoopmaster hooping station system is the industry standard for ensuring the logo ends up in the exact same spot on every shirt, reducing the variables you have to troubleshoot.

Results

By mastering the difference between Complex Fill and Turning, you transition from a "Pattern Clicker" to an "Embroidery Architect."

• Complex Fill: Your foundation. Reliable, flat, fast.
• Turning: Your artist's brush. Flowing, organic, dynamic.

The Pro's Secret: Digitizing is only half the battle. You can have the perfect Wilcom file, but if your hoop handling is poor, you will get gaps. If your fabric slips, you will get distortion.

If you find yourself constantly fighting the physical limitations of plastic hoops—especially on thick jackets or delicate silks—consider that your skill might be fine, but your tools are holding you back. A repositionable embroidery hoop (specifically magnetic frames) creates a "Quality Safety Net," allowing your software settings to shine exactly as you designed them.