Table of Contents
Watch the video: “The Secret Truth about Uneven Knitting Edges & How to Fix Them” by Nimble Needles
If your stockinette edges look like frenemies—one neat and tight, the other looping off into space—you’re not imagining it. There’s a mechanical reason for that imbalance. And once you see it, you’ll stop blaming yourself and start swatching smarter.
What you’ll learn
- Why the knit stitch transports slack across a row while the purl usually doesn’t
- How slip-stitch borders can lock slack where you least want it
- Why garter edges match and combination knitting flips the asymmetry
- Practical experiments (including Norwegian purl and slip variations) to find your best edge
- When to accept “handmade” as a feature, not a flaw
Understanding Uneven Knitting Edges
The "Conveyor Belt" Effect in Knit Stitches When you work a knit stitch in standard English or Continental style, you enter from left to right. That entry angle makes you reach around, stretching the current stitch slightly sideways and “stealing” a bit of yarn from the neighboring stitch—specifically from one row below. As you proceed, that tiny slack is moved along with every subsequent knit, like parcels on a conveyor belt, until it piles up at the end of the row. When you run out of stitches, all that slack has nowhere to go, so an edge loop grows.
This isn’t a theory; you can watch the slack transfer in slow motion. Each stitch borrows from the one below and to the side, then passes the excess onward. At the final stitch, the conveyor belt dumps its cargo into the edge loop—often the big, loopy culprit you see in stockinette.
Pro tip: Observe your last three stitches on a knit row. You’ll often see slight size changes that telegraph how much slack you’re pushing outward. magnetic embroidery hoop
How Purl Stitches Differ Purls are entered from right to left. Thanks to the stitch’s orientation, you generally don’t have to stretch the loop sideways to enter it. You’re also working closer to your needle tip, where there’s more room. The result: purling tends to feed on the small strand between stitches rather than raiding neighbors, so there’s little or no conveyor belt effect. Far less slack migrates toward that edge.
This explains why, in standard stockinette worked flat, one edge often looks tidy (the side that ends on purls) and the other looks loose (the side that ends on knits).
Visualizing the Problem with Swatches - Stockinette with a slipped first stitch: one edge forms tight “knots,” the other looks loopy.
- Garter with a slipped first stitch: both sides are knit rows, so the conveyor belt runs in both directions and the edges match.
- Combination knitting: the usual imbalance reverses, because the stitch entry changes which side moves slack.
Watch out: If you slip the first stitch, remember that the oversized loop often sits two rows below. After you turn, no amount of tugging on the first working stitch will shrink that already-formed loop. It’s out of reach. magnetic embroidery frames
Why Your Slip Stitch Borders Are Uneven
Slack Accumulation and Stitch Locking In a classic slip-stitch selvage, you turn your work, slip the first stitch, then begin knitting or purling the next stitch. On the knit side with a conveyor belt in play, the slack collected during the row gets dumped into that edge loop one row below. When you turn, that loop is effectively “locked”—your first real stitch on the new row isn’t in direct line with the loop that needs tightening. You can pull the working stitch until your fingers tire; the large loop two rows down won’t budge.
The result is a mismatched pair: a side where the knots are tight and hard to enter, and the opposite side where the edge looks like soft loops.
Quick check: Try a few repeats where you don’t slip the first stitch. You’ll notice how knitting the first stitch can help the second stitch “steal back” a touch of slack from the edge, tightening things—but this has its own look and isn’t a universal fix. embroidery machine hoops
The Impact of Knitting Style (Continental vs. English) The phenomenon shows up for both English and Continental knitters because it stems from stitch orientation and entry angle, not how you tension your yarn by hand. That said, how far you reach or how you angle your tools can amplify or dampen the effect. Even two Continental knitters can produce different outcomes depending on the precise path their needle takes through each loop. The conveyor belt moves more when you overextend; it quiets when you work right at the needle tips with minimal sideways motion.
From the comments: Some knitters tried pulling back on the “conveyor belt” side after a row. The creator explains that this just moves slack elsewhere (or requires tedious redistribution), not a real solution. magnetic hoops
Combination Knitting and Reversed Asymmetry
How Stitch Entry Affects Slack Distribution In combination knitting, the knit stitches sit the other way and are typically worked through the back loop. Here, the leading leg sits in back, making entry easier and reducing that sideways reach—and therefore reducing slack transport on knit rows. On the purl side, however, the way the yarn wraps tends to re-activate the conveyor belt: you reach around and extend sideways, sending slack the other way. The net effect: the imbalance flips sides compared to standard stockinette.
This is why a combination knitter may see the opposite edge misbehaving—even with the same “slip the first stitch” routine. As ever, your specific motions matter. Small changes in how you scoop the yarn can tip results either way.
From the comments: One combination knitter reported that their knit rows carry slack while purls don’t, the exact reverse of what the creator observed. That supports the point: micro-motions differ; outcomes depend on your personal technique. snap hoop monster
Practical Solutions for Achieving Better Edges
Mastering the Norwegian Purl For Continental knitters, the Norwegian purl keeps the yarn in back, avoiding a forward yarn swing. Mechanically, it can re-activate the conveyor belt by overextending the stitch one row below on purl rows. In practice, the creator notes that Norwegian purls often carry even more slack than a standard Continental knit row. That means you might still see imbalances—just arranged differently. It’s worth testing, but don’t expect miracles.
Watch out: Switching styles mid-project isn’t trivial. And because results depend on your movement, a new method may simply shift the problem. mighty hoop
The Art of Swatching: Finding Your Perfect Edge The most realistic path is a long, methodical swatch. Cast on a small number of stitches in the exact stitch pattern you’ll use, then knit many inches while rotating variables:
- Slip the first stitch purlwise or knitwise
- Slip it twisted or untwisted
- Hold yarn in front or in back when slipping
- On the return row, knit or purl, through the front or back loop
The permutations add up quickly, but they’re the only way to find what works for your hands, your yarn, and your needles. Watch both edges as you go, and mark transitions so you can compare.
Pro tip: Keep your last two stitches near the needle tips and minimize sideways reach. Tiny changes in where your needles meet the loop can noticeably reduce slack transfer. magnetic hoops for embroidery
Experimenting with Slip Stitch Variations If you like a slipped edge, try cycling through options in a single mega-swatch: slip purlwise with yarn in back, slip knitwise with yarn in back, slip twisted; then repeat with yarn in front. On return rows, alternate knit vs. purl, and try twisted entries. Record each combination. The goal isn’t to find a mythical universal fix but to discover the pairing that balances your personal tension.
From the comments
- Mirror knitting: Could help if your tension stays consistent when you reverse motions, but it can introduce new inconsistencies. Test it on a swatch first.
- Reorienting the first stitch after knitting it: Creates a particular edge look but doesn’t address the root cause (the loop two rows below). Use for aesthetics, not as a cure.
- Book tips (like “fix the first stitch” methods): Helpful in some contexts but not a guaranteed solution for slip-stitch borders because the underlying issue is how slack moves and locks.
Quick check: Knit one swatch where you don’t slip the first stitch. Notice how the second stitch can “steal back” a bit of slack from the edge on knit rows. It looks different—and that may be exactly what you want for certain seams.
Embracing Hand-Knitting's Unique Character
Accepting Inherent Limitations Knit and purl stitches are mirror images; if one is easier to enter, the other resists a bit. That built-in asymmetry means some imbalance is unavoidable in flat fabrics with mixed rows. Most of the time, edges aren’t seen side-by-side in real wear. A scarf drapes. A shawl flows. Perfection is often theoretical rather than visible.
The Importance of Consistency Over Perfection Consistency is the real superpower. If your motions are steady, your fabric reads as intentional—even if one edge is marginally looser. Practice a handful of edge options and choose one that suits your project’s construction needs (seam-friendly, decorative chain, or fuss-free turning). The creator offers an entire video covering ten-plus edge stitches to explore; sample a few and note which one you can execute consistently.
From the comments: Many knitters reported renewed confidence after understanding that edge imbalance is mechanical, not a beginner mistake. Knowledge helps you pick a strategy and move on.
Further Resources for Knitting Perfection
- Garter vs. stockinette experiment: If garter edges look perfect for you, that’s because knit rows run the conveyor belt in both directions, equalizing outcomes.
- Combination knitting diary: Track which side loosens as you adjust knit-through-back-loop and purl motions.
- Edge-stitch sampler: Build a personal reference library—note yarn, needle, slip method, and return-row method alongside photos.
From the comments: Needle curiosity pops up often—those striking sharp-ended tools in the video are custom, one-of-a-kind glass needles, not a mass-market brand. That’s a reminder: tools vary, but the physics stays the same.
Watch out: Don’t expect a friend’s “one weird trick” to guarantee your results. Even within the same style, minute differences in angle and reach can alter how much slack travels.
Closing thought Hand-knitting is a choreography of loops. The conveyor belt effect is simply part of the dance. Now that you can see it, you can choose: counter it with technique, hide it with construction, or embrace it as the handmade signature of your work.
From the comments, distilled
- “Norwegian purl adds slack for me.” That aligns with the creator’s observation: it often carries more slack to that edge.
- “Garter edges were perfect—stockinette drove me nuts.” That tracks: garter balances transports; stockinette doesn’t.
- “I found twisting the last stitch helps.” Twisting can tighten the final loop, but it changes the look—swatch to decide if you like it.
- “Reverse knitting instead of purling?” Possibly helpful for some hands, but the key variable remains tension. Try it on a swatch and compare.
Analogy corner If you come from machine embroidery, think of slack like hoop tension: too loose and fabric migrates; too tight and distortion shows elsewhere. Your edge choices are like selecting the right frame for the job. magnetic frames for embroidery machine
Sidebar analogy for gearheads A balanced edge is less about chasing the newest gadget and more about calibrating your motions. But if your maker brain is wired to explore tools, you’ll recognize the mindset from other crafts—matching the frame to the fabric, much like choosing magnetic embroidery hoops or magnetic hoops for embroidery when stabilizing delicate materials.
Resource map
- Rewatch the knit vs. purl mechanics and observe your own angle of entry.
- Build a long swatch with labeled segments; photograph edges in natural light for honest comparisons.
- Pick the best-looking, most repeatable option and note it in your project journal.
Happy swatching—and happier edges.