Perfect Embroidery Pro: Digitize Clean Circular Lettering for a 3-Inch Patch (Micro Fonts, Sizing, and a Bee Centerpiece)

Choosing the Right Font for Small Lettering

Small patch lettering fails for one reason more than any other: the font was never engineered to stitch cleanly at that size. Beginners often face the "fuzzy blob" phenomenon—where loops of thread overlap and create illegible knots instead of crisp characters.

In the video, Reen Wilcox builds a 3-inch patch layout and intentionally chooses fonts marked with a small “m” in Perfect Embroidery Pro—these are the micro fonts designed to remain readable around roughly a quarter-inch (6mm) letter height. That single choice is what keeps your patch from turning into a fuzzy ring once it’s stitched.

What you’ll learn (and why it matters)

You’ll create two lines of text (“BEE CREATIVE” and “BEE DIFFERENT”), convert them into a circular top-and-bottom arc, then resize the whole lettering block to fit a 3-inch patch with a clean margin. Finally, you’ll drop a bee design into the center and remove unwanted shadow stitches.

If you’re building patches to sell, this workflow is also the fastest way to standardize your layouts: consistent font choice, consistent margins, and consistent sizing reduce your "time-to-hoop" and failure rate.

Expert note: micro fonts are a stitch system, not just a look

Generally, micro fonts stitch better because their satin widths, stitch angles, and density are physically tuned for small geometry. Even when two fonts look similar on screen, the “micro” version creates a thinner column (reducing needle penetration clutter) and opens up the "corners" of letters like 'e' and 'a'.

• The Physics: Standard fonts have high density. At 0.25 inches, that density cuts the fabric. Micro fonts have lighter density (approx. 0.45mm spacing vs 0.35mm) to sit on the fabric rather than bury into it.

If you’re tempted to use a regular font and just shrink it, expect the letters to close up, especially on curves.

To keep your workflow consistent across projects, treat your micro font as a “shop standard.” To reduce re-hooping time and keep patch blanks flat during stitching, many patch makers eventually move from traditional hooping to hooping stations, allowing placement and tension to be mechanically repeatable from one blank to the next.

Creating Circular Text Layouts in Perfect Embroidery Pro

This is the core of the tutorial: entering two lines of text, then converting them from a straight layout into a circle.

Step-by-step: enter the text and select a micro font

1. Open Perfect Embroidery Pro.
2. Activate Text: Click the Text tool icon.
3. Place Cursor: Click on the workspace/canvas to activate text entry.
4. Input Text: In the text tools/properties panel, type:
   • BEE CREATIVE
   • Press Enter for a new line
   • BEE DIFFERENT
5. Select Font: In the font list, look for the small “m” icon. In the video, Reen selects Arial Small.
6. Verify Height: Confirm the font height shown is roughly 0.24 inches (approx. 6mm).

Checkpoints (Pre-flight Visual Check):

• Spelling: Is "CREATIVE" spelled correctly? (Fixing it after curving distorts the spacing).
• Separation: Are there two distinct lines? (You must use Enter, not spaces).
• Font ID: Did you see the "m" icon? If not, stop. Standard Arial at 0.24" will result in thread breaks.

Expected outcome:

• You see two straight lines of text on the canvas, looking small and thin.

Step-by-step: convert “Normal” text to a circle

1. Select Object: Click the text object to highlight it.
2. Access Properties: In the Text properties panel, find the Type dropdown.
3. Change Topology: Change Type from Normal to Circle.
4. Execute: Click Apply.

Checkpoints (Sensory Check):

• Visual Balance: Does the gap between "CREATIVE" and "DIFFERENT" look equal on left and right?
• Readability: Are the letters at the bottom of the circle upright and readable?

Expected outcome:

• Your two lines transform into a circular ring.

Expert “why”: circular text is where small lettering gets punished

On a straight baseline, small lettering relies on the machine's X-axis movement. On a circle, the machine must coordinate X and Y axes perfectly while the specific grain of your fabric fights against the needle. Generally, the tighter the circle, the more likely you’ll see:

• Crowding: The inner edge of the letters squashing together.
• Distortion: The fabric grain pulling the circle into an oval (if not stabilized properly).

In the video, Reen mentions you can edit spacing. That’s the right mindset. If you are planning to stitch many patches, the physical holding method dictates your success. Many shops upgrade to a magnetic hooping station setup because it eliminates the variable of "hand tightening" the hoop screw, keeping the patch sandwich perfectly flat and repeatable every single time.

Resizing Designs to Fit Your Patch Blanks

Once the lettering is circular, you must size it to the real patch blank—not the other way around. In the video, the physical patch is 3 inches, and Reen resizes the lettering to an overall 2.75 inches tall.

Step-by-step: resize with Transform (keep aspect ratio locked)

1. Analyze Dimensions: Look at the current design width/height at the top of the screen.
2. Open Transform: Click the Transform icon (ruler symbol).
3. Lock Ratio: In the Transform panel, ensure Maintain aspect ratio is checked. Do not skip this.
4. Input Target: Click into the Height field and type 2.75 (inches).
5. Apply: Click Apply.

Checkpoints (Critical Safety):

• Ratio Lock: Did the width change proportionally? If the circle looks like an egg, undo immediately.
• Breathing Room: Visually confirm there is about 1/8th inch (3mm) of space between your text and the virtual edge of the 3-inch patch.

Expected outcome:

• The circular lettering shrinks cleanly to 2.75", fitting inside a 3-inch boundary.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. When moving from software to production, remember that patch embroidery requires high precision. Keep fingers clear of the needle bar when holding patches! If using a rotary cutter totrim edges later, always cut away from your body.

Expert “margin math” for patches (what 2.75" is really doing)

Reen’s choice—3.00" patch with 2.75" lettering height—leaves exactly 0.125" (1/8 inch) on all sides. This is the "Production Safe Zone."

• Registration Shift: If your hoop slips 1mm, you won't stitch off the edge.
• Edging: It prevents the needle from hitting the thick merrowed border (which breaks needles instantly).

If you routinely make 3-inch patches, standardization is key. However, holding a small 3-inch disc in a standard hoop is technically difficult—it often pops out. If you are currently struggling with the technique of hooping for embroidery machine on these small, rigid blanks, using a magnetic frame is a standard industry solution. Magnets clamp the rigid edges without forcing them into a ring, reducing physical strain and slippage.

Importing and Editing Stock Designs

After the lettering ring is sized, Reen adds a bee design from the built-in free designs library and removes the drop shadow stitches to reduce bulk.

Step-by-step: insert the bee and remove the shadow

1. Access Library: Open the Free Designs library tab.
2. Import: Drag the Bee design into the center of the circular text.
3. Inspect: Notice the drop shadow stitches underneath the bee.
4. Select & Isolate: Click specifically on the shadow stitches.
5. Remove: Press Delete.

Checkpoints:

• Centering: Is the bee vertically and horizontally centered? (Use alignment tools if unsure).
• Integrity: Did you accidentally delete the bee's legs? Undo and retry if the bee looks incomplete.

Expected outcome:

• A clean bee graphic sits inside the circular lettering.

Expert “digitizing insight”: lighter is better

Deleting the shadow isn't just aesthetic; it's engineering. On a distinct patch (especially stiff twill), every extra needle penetration weakens the material. A dense drop shadow at small sizes often creates a "bulletproof" stiff spot that causes thread breakage.

• Rule of Thumb: For designs under 2 inches, remove background fills and shadows. Let the fabric be the background.

Final Review: The 'Bee Creative' Patch Project

This section ties the software steps to real-world patch success. A pixel-perfect file will still fail if your physical machine setup is flawed.

Prep: hidden consumables & pre-flight checks

Patch quality is usually determined before you press "Start." Gather these items to prevent mid-stitch failure.

Hidden Consumables:

• New Needle: Size 70/10 or 65/9 Sharp (not Ballpoint) for micro text.
• Bobbin: Pre-wound, white, 60wt (standard).
• Adhesive: Temporary spray adhesive (505 spray) to fix the patch to the stabilizer.

Prep Checklist (Complete BEFORE stitching):

• Needle Check: Run your fingernail down the needle tip. If it catches, throw it away. A burred needle ruins small text.
• Bobbin Check: Open the bobbin case. Blow out any lint. Ensure the bobbin is seated counter-clockwise (or per your manual) and tension feels smooth (like pulling dental floss).
• Thread Path: Re-thread the top thread entirely. Ensure the presser foot is UP while threading to engage tension disks.
• Test Run: Do not stitch on your final patch blank first. Run a test on a scrap piece of denim or twill.

Setup: decision tree for stabilizer + holding method

How do you hold a 3-inch patch on a machine? This is the most common frustration point.

Decision Tree (Patch Blank → Holding Strategy):

1. Are you floating the patch (sticking it to stabilizer)?
   • Yes: Hoop a piece of Stiff Tearaway or Cutaway. Spray lightly with adhesive. Stick patch in center.
   • Risk: The patch might lift up during stitching.
2. Are you stitching a large batch (10+)?
   • Yes: "Floating" is slow and messy.
   • Solution: Use professional tools. A hooping station for machine embroidery ensures you place every patch in the exact same spot.
3. Are you struggling with "Hoop Burn" or thick edges?
   • Yes: Traditional hoops leave rings on velvet or crush patch borders.
   • Solution: Switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. These use strong magnets to sandwich the material without friction or ring marks. They are the gold standard for patch production.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic hoops (like those from Sewtech or MaggieFrame) are industrial tools. They snap together with immense force. Keep fingers strictly on the handles, never between the magnets. Keep them away from pacemakers and credit cards.

Operation: stitchability checks

Operation Checklist:

• Speed: Lower your machine speed. For micro text, the Sweet Spot is 400–600 SPM. High speed (800+) causes vibration that blurs small letters.
• Sound Check: Listen for a rhythmic thump-thump. A sharp slap or grinding noise indicates tension issues or a dull needle.
• Visual Monitor: Watch the first letter. If the thread looks loopy (loose), stop immediately. Tighten top tension slightly.

Troubleshooting (symptom → likely cause → fix)

Results: what “done right” looks like

When you follow this workflow, you end up with a clean, readable circular text ring sized for a 3-inch patch.

Success Metrics:

• Legibility: You can read the text from 2 feet away.
• Centering: The "BEE" is mathematically centered.
• No Pucker: The patch lies flat on the table, not curling up like a potato chip.

For production studios, the goal is repeatability. If you find yourself fighting with plastic hoops for every single patch, consider that professionals invest in tools to remove that variable. Many look for dime magnetic hoop style frames or SEWTECH magnetic equivalents to streamline the loading process, turning a frustration-filled hobby into a profitable, smooth-running business.