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Top embed module notice: This article is based on the video “New To Me Machine Viking Topaz 40 Husqvarna Sewing And Embroidery Machine” from the YouTube channel Sewing with Maryrose, but has been expanded into a comprehensive technical guide for beginners.
Upgrading from an entry-level embroidery machine to a feature-rich model like the Husqvarna Viking Designer Topaz 40 is a significant leap. It offers automation and precision that can transform your workflow, but it also introduces a steeper learning curve. This guide walks you through evaluating a used machine, mastering the "System settings" for automatic cutting, and achieving professional applique results—without the frustration of thread nests (birdnesting), hoop burn, or buyer’s remorse.
If you are wondering whether a used Topaz 40 is a viable upgrade from a Brother PE800, how to correctly configure the automatic jump stitch trim, or how to utilize the magnetic hoops often found in these bundles, you are in the right place.
What you’ll learn
- Evaluation Protocol: How to safely inspect a used computerized machine before money changes hands.
- Setup & Calibration: Ensuring the embroidery unit, needles, and tension are dialed in for your first run.
- Advanced Features: configuring automatic jump stitch cutting and the "Exclusive Sensor System" for fabric thickness.
- Hooping Strategy: Why magnetic hoops reduce failure rates on difficult fabrics and how to use them safely.
- Applique Workflow: Using the "text/hoop position" features for safe trimming.
Why Upgrade from PE800 to Viking Topaz 40?
Primer: The Technical leap
Moving from a single-function machine like the PE800 to a combination machine like the Topaz 40 offers more than just sewing capabilities. You typically gain a significantly larger embroidery field (often 240x150mm vs. the PE800's 5x7" limit), superior tension management, and the ability to handle heavier substrates like denim or toweling with less struggle.
In the industry, we often see users upgrade specifically for automatic jump stitch cutting. On entry-level machines, you must manually trim the connecting threads (jump stitches) between design elements. On the Topaz 40, a programmable solenoid drives a blade to cut these threads automatically, saving hours of post-processing time.
Limitations of the 5x7 hoop
If you are coming from a PE800-class machine, you are likely accustomed to the 5x7 (130x180mm) limits. While adequate for chest logos, this size requires "splitting" larger designs—a complex process where you must break a design into sections and re-hoop the fabric multiple times. This introduces severe alignment risks.
The Topaz 40’s larger hoops allow for single-hoop execution of large applique animals, jacket back designs, and home decor blocks.
From the field: One major reason users underutilize these upgrades is fear of the larger hoops. It is crucial to use the correct hoop size for the design; using a massive hoop for a tiny design can cause fabric slippage. Always match the hoop to the design size, or use a magnetic frame to ensure grip.
The mechanics of automatic jump stitch cutting
On the PE800, every time the machine jumps from one color section to another, it leaves a long thread tail. If you don't trim these manually during the stitch-out, the presser foot can catch them, causing a "birdnest" or pulling the fabric.
The Topaz 40 solves this with the "Selective Thread Cutter." However, it is not magic; it requires setup. You must ensure the Jump Stitch Trim command is active in the machine's "Sett." (Settings) menu. When configured, it pulls the top thread to the back and cuts it, leaving a pristine surface.
Noise and Vibration
Computerized machines with heavier internal frames, like the Topaz 40, dampen vibration better than lightweight beginner models. This results in quieter operation and better stitch registration (alignment), as the needle bar vibrates less relative to the hoop.
Unboxing a Used Machine: What to Look For
Buying used requires diligence. You are buying the machine's history. In the source video, the seller included a Q-foot (essential for embroidery) and two large magnetic hoops.

Meeting in safe public places
Meet in a safe, public location. However, for embroidery machines, you need power. Arranging to meet at a local quilt shop (with permission) or a location with accessible outlets is ideal. Alternatively, bring a high-capacity portable power station (AC outlet compatible).
The "Power-On" Test Protocol
Never buy a machine without seeing the needle move.
- Boot Up: Turn it on. Wait for the operating system to load. Watch the screen for dead pixels or touch unresponsiveness.
- Calibration: The carriage arm (the part that holds the hoop) should move fully left, right, and center to find its "home" position. Listen for grinding noises, which indicate stripped gears or lack of grease.
- Handwheel: With the machine off, rotate the handwheel toward you. It should move smoothly with no hard sticking points.
Inventory the Ecosystem
A machine is useless without its specific accessories. Ensure you have:
- Embroidery Unit: The detachable module that moves the hoop.
- Hoops: At least one standard hoop.
- Feet: The "R" foot (Sensor Q foot) is critical for the Topaz embroidery functions.
- Power Cord & Pedal: Ensure they match.


Technical Insight: If the machine includes magnetic hoops, inspect the magnets. Are they intact? Broken magnets can pinch fabric unevenly.
Hidden consumables & prep checks
Before your first stitch, audit your consumables using the "G.A.S." principle (Good quality, Appropriate type, Fresh supplies):
- Thread: Use 40wt Polyester or Rayon embroidery thread. Avoid old cotton sewing thread, which produces lint and breaks at high speeds.
- Bobbin: The Topaz 40 generally prefers a specific weight (often 60wt) bobbin thread. Crucially, start with a pre-wound bobbin or wind a fresh one on this machine. Bobbins wound on different machines often have incorrect tension.
- Needles: Discard whatever needle is currently in the machine. Install a fresh 75/11 Embroidery Needle for standard cotton, or a Ballpoint 75/11 for knits.
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Stabilizer: This is the foundation.
- Cutaway: For knits/stretchy fabrics (permanent support).
- Tearaway: For woven/stable fabrics.
- Water Soluble: For towels (prevents loops from sinking).
Warning: Embroidery speeds are high (800+ stitches per minute). Never put your hands inside the hoop area while the machine is running.
Prep checklist
- Verify the screen touch response is accurate (calibrate screen if needed).
- Listen for smooth initialization of the embroidery arm.
- Check the "Total Stitch Count" in the settings (under Info) to gauge usage.
- Confirm presence of the Sensor Q Foot.
- Safety: Inspect the power cord for fraying before plugging in.
Topaz 40 Key Features & Setup
Once home, do not rush. A systematic setup prevents the "machine is broken" panic that is actually just "user error."


The "Cut" button: Configuration is Key
The scissors button on the front panel triggers a cut immediately. However, for automatic cutting:
- Go to the Settings menu.
- Locate Thread Cut Options or Automatic Jump Stitch Trim.
- Ensure it is set to ON.
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Important: Check the minimum length setting. If set to "6mm," the machine will NOT cut jumps shorter than 6mm. If you want it to cut everything, try lowering this setting, though cutting too frequently can slow down the process and create "birdnests" on the back.
Quick checkRun a test design with "text" (letters are full of jumps). Watch the first transition. If the machine stops, locks the stitch, cuts, and moves, you are successful.
Exclusive Sensor System (ESS)
The Topaz 40 does not use a traditional presser foot pressure dial. It senses fabric thickness automatically.
- How it works: If you switch from thin cotton to a thick quilted sandwich, the machine senses the resistance and raises the foot slightly to allow fabric to feed/move without drag.
- User Action: You generally don't need to adjust this, but ensure your hoop is not "floating" too high. If stitches look loose, check that the fabric is secured tightly in the hoop.
Larger embroidery area
To utilize the full field:
- Select the correct hoop size in the machine interface (e.g., 240x150).
- If the machine warns "Design outside hoop area," rotate the design 90 degrees on the screen.
Setup checklist
- Clean the bobbin area (remove the needle plate and brush out lint).
- Insert a fresh 75/11 embroidery needle.
- Navigate to Settings and enable Automatic Jump Stitch Trim.
- Thread the top thread with the presser foot UP (this opens the tension discs).
- Thread the bobbin and ensure it catches the tension spring in the bobbin case.
The Magnetic Hoop Advantage
The used bundle included two magnetic hoops. In the professional industry, magnetic hoops are considered a productivity multiplier. They clamp fabric using magnetic force rather than friction/screws.


Why magnetic hoops are a bonus
Standard hoops require you to loosen a screw, insert an inner ring, and tug fabric (which causes "hoop burn" or shininess on delicate velvet/performance wear). Magnetic hoops allow you to:
- Lay the stabilizer and fabric flat.
- Drop the magnetic top frame.
- Snap into place.
If you are upgrading from a PE800 and didn't get magnetic hoops in the box, you can likely find a compatible magnetic hoop for brother pe800 to test this workflow. The reduction in hand strain and fabric distortion is significant.
Warning: Pinch Hazard. These magnets are industrial strength. Keep fingers away from the contact zone when snapping the frame shut. Do not place hoops near pacemakers or hard drives.
Ease of Hooping & Hoop Burn
"Hoop burn" is the permanent crushing of fabric fibers caused by standard hoops. Magnetic hoops distribute pressure evenly, virtually eliminating this issue. They are ideal for "unhoopable" items like thick towels, Carhartt jackets, or items with zippers that would interfere with a standard inner ring.
Decision tree: Hooping and Machine choices
- Scenario A (Flat, Thin Cotton): Standard hoop is fine. Use tearaway stabilizer.
- Scenario B (Thick Towel/Sweatshirt): Magnetic hoop is superior. Eliminates struggle and breakage.
- Scenario C (Need fast production): If you find yourself doing 10+ items a day, consider a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH models). These machines use tubular arms and compatible magnetic frames to stitch finished goods (bags, caps) much faster than a flatbed Topaz 40.
If working across different machines, look for hoops that fit your specific mount width. For example, generic magnetic hoops for brother utilize a different attachment bracket than Viking hoops.
Applique on the Topaz 40
Applique requires three precision steps: Placement, Tack-down, and Satin Finish. The transition between Tack-down and Finish requires trimming fabric very close to the stitches while the hoop is on the machine.


Trim functionality and Hoop-Forward
Trying to trim fabric with scissors while the needle is hovering over your hand is dangerous and awkward. The Topaz 40 has a "Park" or "Trim Position" feature (often an icon of a hoop moving).
- Placement Stitch: Machine runs a single outline.
- Stop: Place your fabric. Use a little spray adhesive or tape.
- Tack-down: Machine stitches the fabric down.
- The Move: Press the "Current Stitch" or "Park Position" button to move the hoop toward you.
- The Trim: Use Double Curved Embroidery Scissors to trim excess fabric close to the stitches.
- The Finish: Return the hoop and run the final satin stitch.
Warning: Needle Safety. Always engage the "Sensor System" button to raise the needle or press the "Stop/Lock" button before putting your hands in the hoop area to trim.
Avoiding Fabric Distortion
During applique, if your stabilizer is too light, the satin stitch will pull the fabric, creating puckers.
- Correction: Use a medium-weight cutaway stabilizer for applique on wearables.
- Hooping: Ensure the stabilizer is drum-tight in the hoop (or magnetic frame), but do not stretch the garment fabric itself.
Operation / steps checklist
- Verify stabilizer choice (Cutaway for knit shirts).
- Run Placement line.
- Place applique fabric; ensure it covers the line.
- Run Tack-down line.
- Command: Move hoop to "Trim Position."
- Trim excess fabric (leave 1-2mm margin).
- Complete final satin stitch.
Maintenance Tips for Used Machines
A used machine requires a baseline reset. You don't know the previous owner's habits.


Cleaning and Dusting
Embroidery creates massive amounts of lint compared to sewing.
- Remove: Needle plate (usually two screws).
- Remove: Bobbin case (the black plastic basket).
- Clean: Use a small brush or a micro-vacuum attachment. Never blow air into the machine; it pushes lint into the optical sensors, which causes "phantom" thread break errors.
Winding your own bobbins
While pre-wound bobbins (Class 15/Style L depending on machine) are convenient, some computerized machines are calibrated for the specific weight of the manufacturer's bobbin thread.
When to seek service
If you hear a rhythmic "clunking" or if the machine consistently birds-nests (gather of thread under the plate) despite re-threading, the "timing" may be off. This requires a certified technician. However, for users scaling up, if single-needle maintenance becomes a bottleneck, moving to a modular commercial-style machine (like a SEWTECH unit) often provides easier access to lubrication points and more robust tension assemblies.
Setup refinement checklist
- Remove needle plate and vacuum feed dog area.
- Inspect bobbin case for needle pricks (burrs cut thread).
- Lubricate only if the manual explicitly states (Topaz machines are mostly self-lubricating; do not add oil blindly).
- Check firmware version in settings; update via USB if necessary for new hoop recognition.
Troubleshooting & Recovery
Embroidery is 90% preparation and 10% execution. When things go wrong, use this diagnostic path.


Symptom: "Check Upper Thread" Error (False Alarm)
- Cause: Lint blocking the thread path sensor or the thread jumping out of the take-up lever.
Symptom: Thread Nests (Birdnesting) underneath
- Cause: Zero Top Tension. The top thread is not in the tension discs.
Symptom: White bobbin thread showing on top
- Cause: Top tension too tight or bobbin tension too loose.
- Test: Lower the top tension setting (e.g., from 4.6 to 3.8). Check that the bobbin is inserted in the correct direction (usually counter-clockwise/ "P" shape).
Symptom: Difficulty Trimming Applique
Symptom: Fabric Slipping / Poor Registration
- Cause: Inadequate hooping or stabilizer failure.
- Alternative: Upgrade to a magnetic frame system. For example, a hooping station for embroidery helps align the magnetic frame perfectly square every time, reducing human error.
Symptom: Jump Stitches not cutting
- Cause: "Jump Stitch Trim" allows for a specific length threshold.
Results & Handoff
By following a strict evaluation and setup protocol, the creator in the video transitioned from a "newbie" status to successfully stitching complex applique designs with clean edges and no manual trimming. The Topaz 40, when properly maintained, offers a professional finish that PE800-class machines struggle to match.


For you as a reader, here is your path forward:
- Validate: Test used machines for power, screen touch accuracy, and embroidery arm calibration.
- Equip: Stock fresh 75/11 needles and the three main stabilizer types (Cutaway, Tearaway, Wash-away).
- Optimize: Configure the "Automatic Jump Stitch Trim" in the system settings immediately to save time.
- Upgrade Hoops: If you struggle with hooping thick items, investigate if a magnetic hoop for husqvarna viking is compatible with your model.
- Future Proofing: Recognize that while the Topaz 40 is excellent, if your volume increases, looking into husqvarna embroidery hoops compatibility or moving to a dedicated SEWTECH multi-needle system with commercial magnetic hoops can further automate your production.
Whether you are browsing a used embroidery machine for sale or optimizing one you just bought, the combination of correct settings, a fresh needle, and a high-quality magnetic embroidery hoops system is the secret to frustration-free embroidery.
