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Watch the video: “How to Embroider a Neckline on a Sweatshirt” by Monogram Mompreneur
If you’ve been swooning over curved collar text on boutique sweatshirts, this tutorial shows exactly how to build that clean neckline arc—from software to stitch—without wrestling your garment diagonally in the hoop. You’ll see how to curve the word “mama” in Embrilliance, prep a Gildan 18000, hoop smart with a Mighty Hoop, align by laser, and finish with a confident reveal.
What you’ll learn
- How to curve and rotate text in Embrilliance for a neckline arc
- How to stabilize a sweatshirt neckline with a thin cutaway plus tear-away support
- How to hoop the neckline cleanly and align with a laser trace before stitching
- How to use water-soluble topping for crisp results on knits
- How to trim, remove stabilizers, and assess fit and placement
Introduction to Neckline Embroidery
What is Neckline Embroidery? Neckline embroidery wraps small text along the collar’s arc, creating a subtle, custom look that feels both minimal and meaningful. Unlike a chest placement, the collar arc demands that the text curve naturally and sit precisely where it will look best once worn. Early planning and a printed template are your best friends.
Why Choose a Sweatshirt? A medium-weight sweatshirt like the Gildan 18000 (50/50 cotton-poly) provides an approachable, stable canvas. In the video, the project is done on a hot pink Gildan 18000, folded to find the center and marked before any hooping happens.
Pro tip If this is your first neckline project, keep the text short and the font readable. Print your curved design and test the arc against the collar before you ever touch the hoop. melco embroidery machine
Designing Your Curved Text in Embrilliance
Choosing the Right Font (Libby Jane) The design uses a BX script font: Libby Jane 1.5 inch from Alphabicious Designs. Script fonts shine at the neckline because they flow and look natural on a curve. Type your word (“mama” in this case), then prepare to curve and refine the spacing so letters gently touch.
Curving Text for Necklines In Embrilliance, use the circle control and “place on bottom” to set the text on an arc. The creator uses a radius of 102 mm (approximately 4 inches) to match the collar’s curve in this example. The exact arc you need depends on your word length and garment shape; printing the result is the fastest way to confirm your arc before hooping.
Quick check Do your letters look continuous and smooth? Adjust spacing until the script reads as one flowing line. A tiny nudge on individual letters can make a big improvement.
Rotating Your Design for Perfect Placement A key step: rotate the design 75 degrees in Embrilliance. This aligns the word with the neckline so you don’t have to rotate or contort the garment in the hoop. Print the rotated version, cut it out, and hold it to the collar to validate both the arc and intended position.
Watch out If your arc looks unnatural on the garment, re-check the radius and reprint. Some words need a slightly different radius to sit beautifully on the neckline. melco mighty hoops
Preparing Your Sweatshirt and Stabilizers
Finding the Center and Making a Template Fold the sweatshirt in half to find center and mark it on the collar area. Print your Embrilliance design, cut it closely, and place it where you plan to stitch. The creator marks crosshairs on the template to keep center alignment clear. Pin it to hold placement for hooping.
Layering Soft-N-Sheer and Tear-Away Stabilizers Under the neckline, the creator uses Soft-N-Sheer—a very thin cutaway—adhered with temporary spray. A layer of tear-away is placed as an extra backer to support the float and the hoop gap. This combination adds stability without bulk in a sensitive area that touches skin.
Using Temporary Adhesive A light spray on the stabilizer helps prevent shifting as you hoop. The creator later confirms in the comments that she used 505 Temporary Fabric Spray Adhesive. If adhesion fails, respray lightly and smooth from the center outward to avoid wrinkles.
Pro tip Print and pin the template first. If you dislike pinning, a commenter suggests small painter’s tape pieces to hold the paper design instead of pins. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines
Hooping Techniques for Necklines
Working with the Mighty Hoop The neckline is hooped in a 5x5 Mighty Hoop. The seam is nudged down to keep the bulk out of the stitching path. The goal is even tension and a flat stitching field across the curve. If you feel fabric slip while closing the hoop, reopen and reset rather than forcing it.
Avoiding Seam Interference Scoop the collar seam out of the way before you clamp the hoop. Hooping over a seam can steal tension and invite registration issues or needle strikes. Give yourself an unobstructed stitch zone.
Securing Your Garment Double-check that the template remains aligned, then seat the hoop squarely. The project is centered in the hoop with Soft-N-Sheer adhered underneath and tear-away supporting the area. If anything shifts, correct it before mounting to the machine.
Watch out Remove all pins before pressing start. The creator calls this out right before stitching—skipping this step can damage your needle, garment, or hoop. mighty hoop
Embroidery Machine Setup and Stitching
Loading Your Design (Melco) The design is loaded into the Melco interface, and the machine has been oiled beforehand. With the hooped sweatshirt attached, confirm the correct file is active and the hoop size matches your setup. A quick trace helps confirm boundaries.
Laser Alignment and Tracing The Melco’s laser is used to nudge the design into perfect position over the pinned template. A trace function confirms no part of the stitch path collides with the hoop. This precise check is essential with curved text hugging the neckline’s edge.
Adding Water-Soluble Topping A layer of water-soluble topping is placed over the knit before stitching. This helps keep stitches crisp on textured surfaces and makes small lettering cleaner. The creator uses a water-soluble sheet from AllStitch. Smooth it down so it doesn’t wrinkle under the foot.
Monitoring the Stitching Process Stay present for the first minute to watch the path and ensure the arc is where you intended. The project stitches cleanly in the video, with the arc reading clearly along the collar. If you see issues, stop and reassess rather than pushing through a misalignment.
Quick check After the trace, confirm again that the collar isn’t caught under the hoop lip and that your topping is flat. This 10-second check prevents most early mishaps. mighty hoops
Finishing Touches and Final Reveal
Trimming Jump Stitches Safely Before removing the topping, the creator trims jump stitches while it’s still in place. The topping acts as a small safety buffer to protect the garment as you snip. Keep your scissors parallel to the surface and use short, careful cuts.
Removing Stabilizers Cleanly Tear away the water-soluble topping gently. On the inside, remove the tear-away backer and then trim Soft-N-Sheer to a neat halo around the stitching. Work slowly to avoid nicking the sweatshirt or pulling on stitches.
Assessing Placement and Fit The reveal shows a clean arc and solid stitch quality. The creator wonders if the text should have been closer toward center; opinions vary in the comments, but many like it exactly as placed. Trying on the sweatshirt is the ultimate test—tiny shifts in wear can change how a curve reads.
Watch out Any cutting near the neckline requires extra care. Take your time and never pull against the stitches. melco hoops
From the comments: real-world tips
- Adhesive: The creator confirms using 505 Temporary Fabric Spray Adhesive.
- Stabilizer comfort: A very thin cutaway (Soft-N-Sheer) feels better at the neck; some retail garments appear to use only tear-away—choose what suits your wearer and fabric.
- File formats: One commenter asked about exports; the creator replies she saves as DST or PES and uploads into Design Shop.
- No laser? Several viewers asked about alignment on machines without a laser. A reliable workaround is to transfer the template’s crosshairs onto the fabric with a heat-erasable pen, then manually align your needle to center before tracing.
- Reducing jumps: A viewer suggested alternating letter colors in software, then choosing “one color” at the machine to reduce jumps. The creator hadn’t tried it yet—worth exploring in your workflow.
- Template holding: Another viewer prefers painter’s tape over pins for securing paper templates.
Troubleshooting and common questions
My curved text looks awkward on the collar.
- Revisit the radius in Embrilliance. Longer words often need a slightly larger arc. Print again and test on the neckline before hooping.
- Confirm the design is rotated (the creator used 75°). Rotating in software is easier than rotating the shirt in the hoop.
My design traced close to the hoop edge.
- Shift the placement slightly or scale the design down if allowed. Re-run trace until you’re safely clear.
I’m worried about scratchiness inside the neckline.
- The creator uses Soft-N-Sheer for a thin, soft finish. Trim to a small halo and check comfort against the skin.
Do I really need water-soluble topping?
- It isn’t mandatory, but it improves small lettering on knits. The creator likes it for extra clarity; your results may vary depending on thread, font, and fabric.
I don’t have a laser alignment.
- Use your printed template: mark its crosshairs on the garment with a heat-erasable pen, place the needle over the center, and trace. Take a slow pass around the boundary before you stitch.
What exact settings did the video use?
- Font height: 1.5 inch (Libby Jane BX font)
- Curve radius: 102 mm (about 4 inches)
- Rotation: 75°
- Hoop: 5x5 Mighty Hoop
Safety notes
- Always remove all pins before starting.
- When trimming jump stitches with topping still on, keep snips shallow to protect the fabric.
Project checklist
- Print and test your curved template on the collar.
- Mark center clearly.
- Adhere Soft-N-Sheer to the wrong side; add tear-away as a secondary support layer.
- Hoop with the seam scooted out of the stitch path.
- Load design, align (laser or manual), and trace.
- Place water-soluble topping on knit, then stitch.
- Trim jumps, remove topping, tear away backer, and tidy the cutaway.
- Try on and evaluate placement.
Wrap-up Curved neckline embroidery is all about planning, printing, and precise alignment. With a thin, comfortable stabilizer stack and a clean software arc, the stitching practically feels inevitable. Try a short word first, print before hooping, and lean on your trace. You’ll be surprised how quickly this technique becomes a go-to accent for gifts and shops alike. embroidery machine hoops
Extra resources to consider
- If you use alternative fixtures, a dedicated hooping aid can speed repeat placements and help keep seams out of your stitch field. hoop master station
- Working on a different brand? The same steps apply—just adapt hoop size, alignment method, and tracing features provided by your machine. mighty hoops for melco