Table of Contents
Watch the video: “How to Thread a Janome Sewing Machine” by Easy Sewing for Beginners
Threading a sewing machine can feel like a maze the first few times. This updated walkthrough shows each step close-up, at a comfortable pace, so you can see exactly where every strand goes—and why it matters for smooth, tangle-free sewing. Whether your Janome has a front-loading, top-loading, or easy-set bobbin, you’ll follow the same calm, consistent logic to get set up and sewing with confidence.
What you’ll learn
- How to wind a bobbin evenly with proper winding tension
- How to thread the top path: tension disks, take-up lever, and needle
- How to load and bring up lower thread on top-loading, easy-set, and front-loading bobbins
- Quick checks that prevent birds’ nests and skipped stitches
Introduction to Janome Sewing Machine Threading The instructor uses a Stirling by Janome (equivalent to a Janome JR 1012 and similar to the Janome New Home Pink Sorbet) and demonstrates all three lower-thread systems you’re likely to encounter: front-loading bobbin, top-loading bobbin, and an easy-set top-loading style. This gives you a complete roadmap regardless of which Janome is on your table.
Understanding Your Janome Model
- If your machine has a front-loading system, the bobbin sits in a removable metal bobbin case behind a front cover.
- A top-loading bobbin drops into the bed under a clear cover; you’ll thread a short track at the front.
- An easy-set bobbin is similar to top-loading but includes a channel that snips the thread automatically when you seat it correctly.
Pro tip: Before any threading, raise the presser foot. This opens the tension disks so your upper thread actually enters the disks instead of skating alongside them.
Step 1: Winding the Bobbin Correctly A good seam starts with a well-wound bobbin. Unevenly packed bobbins can cause tension hiccups and tangles later, even if your top threading is perfect.
Setting Up Your Thread Spool
- Lift the spool pin and place your spool on it.
- Guide the thread through the bobbin-winding tension guide—between the two small disks on top. This adds the control that keeps winding neat and even.
Engaging the Bobbin Winder - Feed the thread tail through a small hole in the bobbin to anchor the first rotations. Hold that tail while you start.
- Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle and push the spindle to the right to engage.
- On some machines, you can pull out the handwheel/flywheel to disengage the needle. If your model offers this, it prevents the needle from moving while you wind.
- Press the foot pedal to begin winding. After a few seconds, stop and snip the tail close to the bobbin so it doesn’t get buried.
- Continue until you have the amount of thread you need, then push the spindle back to the left to stop. Remove the bobbin and snip the thread.
Quick check: The wound bobbin should look even across its width, not cone-shaped on one side.
Watch out: If the bobbin isn’t turning, confirm the spindle is clicked to the right. If winding looks loose or lumpy, re-thread between the winding tension disks.
Step 2: Threading the Top of Your Machine Upper threading is a sequence: spool pin → first guide → tension disks → lower guide → take-up lever → needle-bar guide → needle.
Navigating Thread Guides and Tension Disks - Place the top thread spool on the spool pin.
- Follow the first thread guide at the top, then go down between the tension disks with the presser foot up (this is crucial).
- Continue through the lower guide (often marked with a number), then back up.
Using the Take-Up Lever - Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the take-up lever to its highest point.
- Seat the thread behind and into the lever so it rests in the front opening.
- Bring the thread back down and into the needle-bar guide above the needle.
Manual vs. Automatic Needle Threading - Manual: Trim the thread tip cleanly and pass it through the needle from front to back.
- Automatic: On the machine shown, lower the auto-threader lever, hook the thread around the small guides, and slowly release the lever to pull a loop through the eye. Grab the loop from behind and pull it through.
Pro tip: If you’re returning to sewing after a break, take a breath and re-thread slowly. Tiny misroutes at the take-up lever or needle-bar guide can cause big loops later.
From the comments: Many beginners ask if they must use the auto threader. You don’t. Manual threading is fine—use the auto threader only if you prefer a quick assist.
Step 3: Loading Your Bobbin and Bringing Up the Lower Thread The video walks you through three setups. Use the one that matches your machine.
Top-Loading Bobbin Machines
- Remove the clear bobbin cover.
- Orientation matters: For top-loading, the thread should unwind anti-clockwise—like forming the letter “P.”
- Drop the bobbin in. Guide the thread into the groove at the front and toward the left so it sits under the small tensioner.
- Hold the top thread gently to the left. Turn the handwheel toward you to lower and raise the needle. This passes the top thread around the bobbin.
- Pull the top thread to bring up the bobbin loop. Pull both threads under the presser foot and toward the back. Replace the cover.
Easy-Set Bobbin Machines
- Remove the cover and drop in the bobbin with the same anti-clockwise direction.
- Follow the marked track under the small guide; the track snips the bobbin tail automatically when correctly seated. Replace the cover.
- Ensure the top thread is to the back of the machine before sewing.
Front-Loading Bobbin Machines
- Remove the free arm (if applicable) and open the front cover to access the hook race.
- Place the bobbin into the metal bobbin case so the thread unwinds clockwise—like the letter “Q.”
- Guide the thread through the side slit and under the tiny tension spring so it sits in the groove.
- Hold the bobbin case by its latch and insert it into the hook race, aligning the small “finger” on the case with the groove inside. It should seat firmly without wobble.
- Hold the top thread out to the left. Turn the handwheel toward you to lower and raise the needle, then gently pull the top thread to bring up the bobbin loop. Tuck both threads under the foot toward the back and close the cover.
Quick check: If the bobbin doesn’t turn in the expected direction when you pull the tail—reinsert it (P for top-loaders; Q for front-loaders).
Common Threading Pitfalls and How to Fix Them Problem: Thread bunches underneath (looks like a bird’s nest).
- Likely cause: Upper thread didn’t seat in the tension disks because the presser foot was down during threading, or the take-up lever step was missed.
- Fix: Re-thread the top with the presser foot up. Confirm the take-up lever is at its highest point when you thread it. Verify the thread is in every guide.
Problem: Thread won’t catch the bobbin to bring it up.
- Likely cause: Wrong bobbin orientation or the bobbin thread isn’t in its tension path.
- Fix: Re-orient (P for top-loading, Q for front-loading) and seat the thread in the bobbin track. Hold the top thread while turning the handwheel toward you.
Problem: Stitches look balanced on top but loops form underneath.
- Likely cause: Upper tension not engaged or missed take-up lever.
- Fix: Re-thread the upper path with the presser foot up and confirm the take-up lever step. The video’s default upper tension dial is set to 4.
Problem: Needle won’t move with the pedal.
- Note: The video doesn’t cover pedal troubleshooting. Some machines disengage the handwheel for bobbin winding, but normal-operation fixes aren’t specified here.
Watch out: Turning the handwheel away from you can mis-time the loop pickup. Always turn it toward you when threading and bringing up the bobbin thread.
Ready to Sew: Final Checks Before You Start
- Top thread correctly routed through every guide, including the take-up lever and needle-bar guide.
- Presser foot down for sewing (up only while threading the upper path).
- Both threads pulled under the presser foot and toward the back.
- Upper tension dial at 4 as demonstrated (adjust later if needed, per your manual).
- Bobbin orientation double-checked (P for top-loading, Q for front-loading) and seated in its tension.
From the comments: Beginners repeatedly share that the “P” and “Q” memory trick made everything click. If your machine sat unused for years, don’t worry—repetition brings back the rhythm fast.
Pro tip: If you plan to explore decorative stitching or add-on accessories later, consider keeping a small threading checklist next to your machine. It speeds up your start every time.
A note for future embroidery-curious sewists Threading fundamentals are the gateway to machine embroidery, where hooping and stabilizing add a new dimension to your craft. If you eventually move into that world, you’ll encounter magnetic and snap-style frames. You don’t need any of that for basic threading—but it’s useful vocabulary for later. For example:
- Some home embroiderers look for compact, entry-level gear and search terms like embroidery sewing machine.
- As you research add-ons, you might see discussions about magnetic embroidery hoops and how they can speed hooping for certain fabrics.
- Janome fans sometimes explore dedicated embroidery models, so you’ll see references to a janome embroidery machine.
- Many crafters talk about “snap” style frames such as snap hoop monster and how they compare to other hooping systems.
- Brand-specific frames come up often; for instance, Brother users might discuss a magnetic hoop for brother pe800 when upgrading their embroidery toolkit.
- If you’re shopping internationally, you’ll find communities comparing options like magnetic embroidery hoops uk and what’s easy to buy locally.
- And if you end up blending quilting, decorative stitches, and embroidery, you’ll see broader threads around a sewing and embroidery machine that does it all.
None of this changes how you thread a basic Janome for regular sewing—but if those terms pop up in your feed, now you’ll know why.
Troubleshooting snapshot
- If stitches skip or the needle struggles after threading: re-seat the top thread and bring the take-up lever to its highest point, then re-thread the needle from front to back.
- If you hear clunking or feel resistance: stop, raise the needle fully, raise the presser foot, remove the work, and re-check bobbin seating and orientation.
- If your top thread breaks: inspect for a burr on the needle, confirm thread path, and ensure the presser foot was up while threading so tension engaged properly.
From the comments
- Several beginners said this was the first time threading made sense, especially thanks to the close-up views and “P vs. Q” orientation cues.
- Viewers returning after years away found that following the on-screen numbers and pausing at each guide prevented missed steps.
- A frequent worry was the loop pickup step; holding the top thread gently to the left while turning the handwheel toward you was the turning point.
Your go-to mini checklist
- Presser foot UP while threading the upper path
- Tension dial 4 (as shown) unless your manual specifies otherwise
- Take-up lever threaded at its highest position
- Needle threaded front to back
- Bobbin orientation: “P” top-loading, “Q” front-loading
- Bring up bobbin loop before you start sewing
You’re ready With a tidy, evenly wound bobbin, correctly routed upper thread, and that quick loop pickup, your Janome is set for smooth, frustration-free seams. Keep the “P and Q” memory trick in your back pocket, and you’ll thread confidently every time.