Go Bigger Than 5x7 on a Brother PE900: A Real-World 5x12 Multi-Position Hoop Workflow (and How to Avoid the Center Pucker Trap)

If you’ve ever stared at your Brother PE900 and thought, “I love this machine… but I’m boxed into 5x7 forever,” you’re not alone. The desire to go bigger is the natural evolution of every embroiderer. A 5x12 multi-position hoop can absolutely let you stitch longer designs—but only if you respect the physics that make or break the result: (1) how the file is split in software, and (2) how stable your fabric stays while the hoop is repositioned.

This post rebuilds the exact workflow shown in the video (software setup → two files → stitch left half → move to the next notches → stitch right half), then adds the missing “veteran” details that prevent the two classic headaches the creator ran into: center puckering (the "trampoline effect") and basting-frame misalignment.

The 5x12 Multi-Position Hoop Reality Check (Brother PE900 / PE800 Compatibility, Notches, and Expectations)

The hoop in question is a third-party 5x12 inch (130mm x 300mm) multi-position hoop used on a Brother PE900. Unlike standard hoops, it has a corner screw to separate inner/outer rings and—most importantly—four mounting notches on the side bracket. Those notches are the whole trick: you stitch one “position,” then physically move the hoop to the next notch set so the second file lands where it should.

A lot of people buy these hoops expecting the machine to magically “know” it’s a 5x12. It won’t. The PE900 (and similar 5x7-class machines) still thinks in 5x7 terms—so the only way around the limit is to split the design in software first. If you’re searching for brother repositional hoop options, this is the core concept: the hoop is repositionable, but the design must be prepared to match the physical shift.

What you should expect from a 5x12 multi-position hoop:

• You’ll end up with two stitch files (File 1 and File 2).
• You’ll stitch left-to-right (or top-to-bottom depending on rotation).
• You’ll likely see a basting alignment frame stitch first (if enabled in software).
• The final result can look professional on forgiving designs (like spaced lettering), but long hoops are more sensitive to hooping mechanics—especially in the center where leverage is weakest.
  

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do Before Multi-Position Hooping (So the Center Doesn’t Go Loose Mid-Run)

Long hoops fail in the middle because the fabric is farthest from the clamping edges. Think of the hoop like a drum: the rim holds tension, but the center is where vibration and stitch pull show up first. On canvas, you can get away with a lot—yet the video still shows puckering near the center after stitching.

Before you even open Embrilliance, do these quick checks. They’re boring, but they prevent 80% of the “why did my two halves not match?” panic.

Warning: Mechanical Safety Hazard. Keep fingers, seam rippers, and snips away from the needle area while the machine is running. Long hoops have a wider swing radius; ensure your table area is clear of coffee mugs or scissors that could be knocked over by the moving arm.

Prep Checklist (do this before software and before hooping)

• Check the Hardware: Confirm your hoop bracket is intact and the four notches are clean. Run your finger over them—any burrs or plastic flash will prevent the hoop from seating with a satisfying "click."
• Bobbin Check: A 5x12 design consumes more thread. Ensure you have a full bobbin to avoid changing it mid-split, which can nudge the hoop carriage.
• Fabric Selection: Choose a fabric that won’t punish you on your first test (the video uses pink canvas—a smart, stable choice).
• Stabilizer Match: Use the stabilizer shown: fusible tearaway on the back. The "fusible" part is critical because it irons onto the fabric, preventing the fabric from sliding over the stabilizer during the hoop move.
• Thread Choice: White embroidery thread (as used in the demo) or any high-contrast color for visibility during the test.
• Hidden Consumables: Have a temporary spray adhesive (like Odif 505) or basting pins ready if you aren't using fusible stabilizer.
• Tools: Keep a seam ripper nearby (the video uses one to remove basting stitches that cross the lettering).

Comment-proven “drum tight” tricks (useful on long hoops):

• The "Skin/Friction" Trick: Wrap the inner hoop with bias binding or Vet wrap to reduce tiny gaps and improve grip. This is Level 1 stabilization.
• Peripheral Pinning: Use T-pins or quilting clips along the long sides (outside the stitch field) to help keep the fabric taut.
• Sound Check: Tap the hooped fabric. It should sound like a dull thud on a drum, not a loose flap.

Those tips are especially valuable if you’re doing a lot of hooping for embroidery machine work on long, skinny designs where the center naturally wants to sagging.

Make Embrilliance Essentials Do the Heavy Lifting (Multi-Position Hoop Style, 90° Rotation, and Auto-Splitting)

In the video, the design is split in Embrilliance Essentials using the built-in multi-position hooping feature. The key point: you cannot split designs on the Brother PE900 itself—you must do it in software.

Here’s the exact setup shown, broken down into micro-steps:

1. Open a new project in Embrilliance.
2. Go to Preferences (Mac) or Edit > Preferences (Windows).
3. Under Hoop Style, switch from Normal to Multi-Position.
4. Select 130x300 Jumbo Hoop (this corresponds to the 5x12 hoop).
5. Crucial Step: Apply the setting. You will now see the hoop area displayed as two overlapping rectangles on the canvas.
6. Rotate: Rotate your design 90 degrees so it runs horizontally across the long axis.

That overlay is your “truth.” If your lettering or artwork crosses the overlapping zone (the "spine" of the hoop), that is where the join will happen. If you’re exploring multi hooping machine embroidery techniques, this overlay is what separates a clean tile from a heartbreak tile.

Build a “Split-Friendly” Design (Text Tool, 1.5" Size, and Why Spacing Beats Bravery)

The creator keeps the first test smart and simple:

• Uses the text tool to type “Sewing Report”.
• Sets the font size to 1.5 (1.5 inch lettering).
• Lets the software automatically split the design across the two hoop sections.
• Saves as a stitch file (PES), which generates two files (usually labeled Design_Top.pes and Design_Bottom.pes or similar).

Here’s the veteran advice that’s implied in the video but worth stating plainly:

• Air is easier to split than thread. Lettering is forgiving because you can usually ensure the split line falls between the letters "g" and "R" (in "Sewing Report") rather than slicing through a solid complex fill.
• Density Warning: Dense satin columns that get split are very hard to realign perfectly on a hobby machine. You will see a hairline fracture.

So for your first run, copy the video’s strategy: choose a phrase where the split line lands in open space. That’s how you get a “win” fast and learn the hoop mechanics without fighting digitizing physics.

Transfer and Load File 1 on the Brother PE900 (USB Selection and the “Don’t Touch Settings” Rule)

At the machine, the workflow is:

1. Hoop the canvas with fusible tearaway stabilizer on the back. Ensure the iron-on bond is secure.
2. Insert the USB flash drive containing both files.
3. On the Brother PE900 screen, select the first of the two split files.

The Golden Rule: Once you load File 1, do not touch the position arrows or resize buttons on the screen.

The creator explicitly avoids changing tension, size, or position settings on-screen when moving to the second file later. That’s not superstition—it’s consistency. When you’re doing multi-position work, your “registration system” is the software split + the hoop physical notches. If you start nudging settings on the LCD screen, you are breaking the coordinate system established by the software.

If you’re shopping or comparing brother pe900 hoops, treat multi-position stitching like a controlled experiment: change one thing at a time, or you’ll never know what fixed (or broke) the alignment.

Stitch Position 1 Using the Top Two Notches (Basting Frame Surprise, What It’s For, and When to Remove It)

To stitch the first half:

1. Attach the hoop to the embroidery arm using the first set of notches (the video uses the top two notches for part one / left side). Listen for a distinct mechanical click or snap to know it is fully seated.
2. Lower the presser foot.
3. Start stitching.

Speed Tip: For long hoops on single-needle machines, the "wobble factor" is high. Reduce your stitching speed to 350 - 600 SPM (Stitches Per Minute). The video doesn't mention this, but slowing down reduces the vibration that causes the center of the hoop to shudder and blur the design.

In the video, the machine begins with a basting alignment frame. That frame is meant to help you verify that the second position will land correctly. However, there’s a real-world downside: the basting stitches act as a visual guide, but they are hard to remove later. The creator uses a seam ripper to pick out the basting stitches that traverse the text area to avoid stitching over them later.

Setup Checklist (right before you press Start on File 1)

• Physical Lock: Hoop is locked into the top two notches (part one position). Try to wiggle it gently—it should not move.
• Clearance: Presser foot is lowered and not hitting the plastic rim of the hoop.
• Tension: Fabric feels evenly taut. Tap the center—does it bounce back?
• Speed: Machine speed is reduced to the "Beginner Sweet Spot" (approx 400-600 SPM).
• Strategy: You understand whether you’ll keep the basting frame or remove sections of it with a seam ripper.
• Discipline: You’re committed to not changing on-screen position/tension between File 1 and File 2.
  

Reposition the Hoop for File 2 (Bottom Two Notches, Snap-In Feel, and What NOT to Adjust)

After File 1 finishes, the creator reports it took about 15 minutes.

Next:

1. Return to the main screen.
2. Load the second split file.
3. The Physical Move: Lift the hoop release lever. Slide the hoop physically so it engages the second set of notches (the bottom two notches in the video).
4. Snap it into place. Verify the fit is flush.
5. Lower the presser foot.

The most important warning from the video is simple: do not change tension or position settings on the screen; only move the physical hoop.

This is where many people accidentally sabotage themselves—especially if they see the basting frame looking “a little off” and try to compensate on-screen. If you do that, you’re no longer following the split map the software created. Trust the Notches.

Stitch Position 2 and Judge Alignment Like a Pro (What “Good Enough” Looks Like on a First Run)

With the hoop snapped into the second notch position, stitch the second half.

In the video:

• The second half stitches next to the first (“Report” next to “Sewing”).
• The creator notices the basting outline isn’t perfectly lined up; the second frame goes slightly beyond the first.
• The creator also sees the machine stitching over part of the earlier basting stitches.

How to Judge Alignment:

• The "Arm's Length" Test: Stand back 3 feet. Is the text straight? If yes, it's a pass.
• Design alignment > Basting alignment: The basting lines are just a rough guide. If the letters line up but the basting boxes are 1mm off, ignore the boxes.
• The Step Check: If you see a visible “step” (one word is physically lower than the other), stop. This usually means the fabric slipped in the hoop, or the hoop wasn't fully seated in the notch.
  
  
  

Why the Center Puckers on a 5x12 Hoop (and How to Stabilize Without Guessing)

The creator’s honest result review is exactly what I see in studios: the design looks decent, but the fabric shows puckering near the center—the area farthest from the hoop’s clamping edges.

The video suggests tightening the screw more or improving stabilization. A commenter adds a common approach: 2–3 layers of tearaway stabilizer and slightly loosening top tension.

Here’s the deeper “why,” in plain shop language:

• Stitching creates pull forces. Every stitch pulls fabric inward.
• In a long hoop, the center behaves like a trampoline: it has the most "give."
• If the fabric isn’t uniformly supported, the needle’s repeated penetrations act like a jackhammer, pushing the fabric down and pulling it in.

What to do (The "Floating" Alternative): Instead of hooping the fabric directly, hoop a heavy stabilizer (like PolyMesh or Cutaway) drum-tight. Then, use spray adhesive to stick your fabric on top of the stabilizer. This puts the tension on the stabilizer (which doesn't stretch), not the fabric.

If you’re trying to scale this beyond a hobby test, this is where embroidery hooping station habits matter: consistent hooping pressure and repeatable prep beat “muscling it” every time.

A Simple Stabilizer Decision Tree for Long Hoops (Fabric → Backing Strategy → Risk Level)

Use this as a practical starting point for 5x12 multi-position runs:

Decision Tree 1) Is your fabric firm like canvas or denim (No Stretch)?

• Yes → Start with Fusible Tearaway (as shown). If center puckers, switch to hooping Cutaway and floating the canvas.
• No → Go to 2.

2) Is your fabric stretchy (T-shirt) or thin?

• Yes → STOP. Multi-position hooping on knit via a single-needle machine is expert-level difficult.
• Recommendation: Use Fusible Cutaway (No Show Mesh). Hoop the stabilizer, float the shirt. Do not try to trap a T-shirt in the rim of a 5x12 hoop; you will stretch it out of shape before you start.
• No → Go to 3.

3) Is the design dense (heavy fills) or airy (letters)?

• Dense → High Risk. Use heavy Cutaway. Expect to see the seam line.
• Airy → Low Risk. Tearaway is likely fine.

The Basting Stitch Question Everyone Asks (Remove It, Skip It, or Live With It?)

One commenter asked if there’s a way to get rid of the basting stitch. My shop take: Skip it.

The basting file is helpful for visualizing, but dangerous for production. The cleanest workflow is:

1. In Embrilliance, assign the basting stitch a unique color (e.g., Neon Green).
2. On your machine, when the "Neon Green" step comes up, simply press the Forward/Skip button to move to the next color stop (the actual text).
3. This saves you from picking out stitches later and reduces fabric perforation.
   

Troubleshooting the Two Most Common Multi-Position Hoop Failures (Symptoms → Causes → Fixes)

When multi-position hooping goes wrong, it usually goes wrong in predictable ways. Here’s how to diagnose what you saw in the video.

1) Fabric puckering near the center

Symptom: Ripples/puckers appear around the middle of the 5x12 field; fabric looks "baggy" after un-hooping. Likely causes:

• "Trampoline Effect": Center of the hoop was too loose.
• Over-tightening the screw distorted the fabric bias before stitching.

Fixes:

• use Fusible Stabilizer to bond fabric to backing.
• Use the Float Method (Hoop stabilizer only, stick fabric on top).

2) Basting frame/Design Misalignment checks

Symptom: The second half is shifted up/down or left/right by 2-3mm. Likely causes:

• Hoop obstruction: Table or wall blocked the long hoop from moving fully.
• Notch Debris: Thread lint or dust in the bracket notches prevented a full seat.

Fixes:

• Clean the notches on the hoop bracket.
• Ensure the embroidery arm has 12+ inches of clearance on all sides.
  

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense (When Magnetic Hoops Beat Screws, Pins, and Wrist Pain)

If you only do a 5x12 project once in a while, the third-party hoop method described above is perfectly fine. But if you’re doing repeat work—logos, team names, tote bags—your bottleneck quickly becomes hooping consistency and wrist fatigue.

Traditional screw hoops rely on manual strength and often leave "hoop burn" (shiny rings) on fabric. This is where a Magnetic Hoop becomes a practical tool upgrade, not a gimmick.

• The Problem: Tightening screws on thick fabrics (towels, canvas) is hard, and often the fabric slips as you turn the screw.
• The Solution: If you’re constantly fighting hoop burn or uneven tension on magnetic hoop for brother pe900 projects, magnetic clamping allows you to sandwich the fabric instantly without "pulling" it.
• The Efficiency: If you’re on a 5x7-class machine and want faster, more repeatable hooping, a brother pe800 magnetic hoop style upgrade can be a comfort win. The magnets hold the stabilizer and fabric flat automatically.
• The Production Reality: For shops running volume, magnetic frames reduce wrist strain. Saving 30 seconds per hoop adds up to hours per week.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Magnetic hoops contain strong industrial magnets (Neodymium). keep them away from pacemakers, implanted medical devices, and mechanical watches. They can also pinch fingers severely if snapped together carelessly.

If you’re considering magnetic embroidery hoops for brother machines, use this decision filter:

• Choose Magnetic when: You have high volume, you struggle with wrist strength, or you work with thick materials (towels/bags) that won't fit in screw hoops.
• Stay with Screw Hoops when: You are strictly a hobbyist on a budget, or you only embroider thin cottons occasionally.

The “Production Mode” Mindset: How to Make 5x12 Multi-Position Work Repeatably

The creator’s full stitch-out took about 30 minutes. That’s fine for a test. But in a studio, if you have an order for 10 items, that is 5 hours of work—risky work where one misalignment ruins a shirt.

When to upgrade the machine? If you find yourself doing multi-position hooping daily, you have outgrown the single-needle machine. This is the criteria for moving to a Multi-Needle Machine (like the models offered by SEWTECH):

1. Speed: Multi-needles don't need to be split; they have large native fields (e.g., 8x12).
2. Color Changes: They change colors automatically (no re-threading).
3. Stability: The hoops are supported on both sides, eliminating the "trampoline" pucker.
   

Operation Checklist (what to verify before you call it “done”)

• File Integrity: File 1 and File 2 both stitched successfully with no on-screen position changes.
• Mechanical Seat: The hoop was moved from Notch Set A to Notch Set B cleanly and fully seated (Listen for the click!).
• Cleanup: Any basting stitches were skipped or removed without cutting the fabric.
• Visual QC: The seam between halves is invisible at arm's length.
• Diagnostics: You noted what caused any puckering (if any) so the next run uses better stabilization (e.g., switching to float method).

FAQ

• Q: Why does fabric pucker in the center when using a 5x12 multi-position hoop on a Brother PE900?
  A: This is common—the center of a long hoop is the loosest area, so stitch pull creates a “trampoline” pucker unless stabilization is upgraded.
  • Switch to the float method: hoop a firm cutaway (or PolyMesh) drum-tight, then adhere the fabric on top with temporary spray adhesive.
  • Use fusible tearaway only as a starting point on stable fabrics; if puckering shows, move to cutaway support.
  • Slow the Brother PE900 stitching speed to reduce vibration that amplifies center movement.
  • Success check: after stitching, the center area lays flat with no “baggy” ripples when viewed at arm’s length.
  • If it still fails, re-hoop and confirm even tension across the full 12" span before blaming the split files.
• Q: How do you correctly reposition a 5x12 multi-position hoop from Position 1 to Position 2 on a Brother PE900 without misalignment?
  A: Only move the physical hoop to the next notch set and do not adjust on-screen position/size—this keeps the software split coordinate system intact.
  • Finish File 1, then load File 2 from the USB without changing any arrows, resize, or position controls.
  • Lift the hoop release lever and slide the hoop to the second notch set (the other pair of notches), then snap it in fully.
  • Confirm the hoop bracket is flush and seated before stitching.
  • Success check: you hear/feel a distinct click/snap and the hoop does not wiggle when gently tested.
  • If it still fails, clean lint/dust from the notch area and verify the table/wall is not blocking the long hoop travel.
• Q: What should be checked before pressing Start on File 1 with a 5x12 multi-position hoop on a Brother PE900?
  A: A quick pre-flight check prevents most split-join failures—treat multi-position stitching like a controlled setup, not a “hit start and hope” job.
  • Confirm a full bobbin is installed to avoid mid-run changes that can disturb registration.
  • Verify fabric is evenly taut across the hoop and bonded to stabilizer if using fusible backing.
  • Reduce stitch speed to a beginner-safe range (about 350–600 SPM) to limit wobble on a long hoop.
  • Success check: tapping the hooped fabric produces a firm, dull “drum” sound rather than a loose flap.
  • If it still fails, add grip to the inner hoop (wrap with bias binding/Vet wrap) or add peripheral support (clips/pins outside the stitch field).
• Q: Should the basting alignment frame be removed when using Embrilliance Essentials multi-position hooping with a Brother PE900?
  A: For cleaner results, skipping the basting step is often the safest option because basting stitches can be hard to remove and can be stitched over during Position 2.
  • Assign the basting frame a unique color in Embrilliance Essentials so it becomes its own color stop.
  • At the Brother PE900, use the Forward/Skip function to jump past that basting color step.
  • If basting was already stitched, remove only the sections that cross the design area before running File 2.
  • Success check: the final lettering aligns cleanly, and no basting threads are trapped under the second half stitching.
  • If it still fails, judge alignment by the design (letters) rather than the basting box, since the box can be slightly off while the design is acceptable.
• Q: Why is the basting frame slightly offset between File 1 and File 2 on a Brother PE900 5x12 multi-position hoop, even when the letters look okay?
  A: A small basting-box mismatch can happen and is not always a failure—prioritize design alignment over basting alignment.
  • Compare the stitched letters at the join rather than chasing the box outline.
  • Avoid “correcting” with on-screen arrows/position tools after loading File 2.
  • Make sure the hoop is fully seated in the correct notch set and not partially blocked by the table or wall.
  • Success check: from about 3 feet away, the text reads straight with no visible step between halves.
  • If it still fails, stop if you see a clear step up/down—re-seat the hoop and re-check notch cleanliness before restitching.
• Q: What is the safest way to prevent finger injuries when running a long 5x12 hoop on a Brother PE900 during multi-position stitching?
  A: Keep hands and tools away from the needle area while the machine runs—long hoops have a wider swing radius and can knock objects into the stitch path.
  • Clear the table area so the hoop arm cannot hit scissors, seam rippers, mugs, or thread stands.
  • Do not reach near the needle to “help” thread or fabric while stitching.
  • Plan seam ripper work only when the machine is stopped and the needle is safely up.
  • Success check: the hoop completes full travel without contacting any objects and the operator’s hands never enter the moving zone.
  • If it still fails, re-position the machine for more clearance (the long hoop needs generous space around the embroidery arm).
• Q: What safety precautions are required when using magnetic embroidery hoops or magnetic frames for machine embroidery?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as industrial magnets—they can pinch fingers and should be kept away from pacemakers, implanted medical devices, and mechanical watches.
  • Separate and assemble magnetic parts slowly and deliberately to avoid sudden snap-together pinches.
  • Store magnetic hoops away from sensitive devices and keep them secured when not in use.
  • Keep fingers out of pinch points when lowering the magnetic top ring onto the bottom frame.
  • Success check: the fabric is clamped flat with no struggle, and the magnets seat without a sudden slam.
  • If it still fails, stop and reset the frame—never force magnets into place if alignment feels off.
• Q: If multi-position hooping a 5x12 design on a Brother PE900 keeps causing puckering or misalignment, what is a practical upgrade path from technique fixes to equipment upgrades?
  A: Use a three-level approach: stabilize and slow down first, upgrade hooping consistency next, and only then consider a multi-needle machine if multi-position work becomes frequent.
  • Level 1 (technique): use fusible stabilizer or float fabric on hooped cutaway, reduce speed, and keep on-screen settings unchanged between File 1 and File 2.
  • Level 2 (tooling): consider magnetic hoops/frames when hoop burn, slipping, or wrist fatigue makes screw-hooping inconsistent.
  • Level 3 (capacity): move to a multi-needle machine when daily multi-position splitting becomes a time and risk bottleneck.
  • Success check: repeat runs produce an invisible join at arm’s length with stable fabric (no center bagging) and consistent seating “click” at both notch positions.
  • If it still fails, document whether the failure is (a) center support, (b) notch seating/clearance, or (c) design density crossing the overlap zone before changing multiple variables at once.