Table of Contents
Watch the video: “How to Thread Your Baby Lock Sashiko!” by baby lock
If you’ve ever stared down your Sashiko and wondered how on earth to thread something that sews with a bobbin-only setup, you’re not alone. This guide distills the video’s friendly, confidence-boosting walkthrough into clear, repeatable steps. We’ll wind a perfect bobbin, thread the unique bobbin case, seat it correctly, and pull up the thread so you’re ready to stitch.
What you’ll learn
- How to wind and inspect a Class 15 bobbin so it feeds smoothly
- How to thread the bobbin case (with the memorable bunny ears and tail analogy)
- The safe “doorbell” method before opening the bobbin area
- How to seat the bobbin case so the tail stays perky and the ears click into place
- How to catch the thread with the flywheel and manage your starting tail
Understanding Your Baby Lock Sashiko Machine The Baby Lock Sashiko uses an unconventional, bobbin-centric threading path that can feel intimidating the first time. That’s normal. The instructor in the video acknowledges this and demonstrates that once you see the sequence—and repeat it a few times—it becomes second nature.
Quick check
- Nervous because there’s no top thread? That’s by design—this machine forms its stitch from the bobbin.
- If anything feels rough or catches while you pull thread later, it usually traces back to bobbin winding, bobbin quality, or bobbin case seating.
Note: The video focuses on threading and bobbin handling. It does not cover traditional hand sashiko techniques on this machine. If you’re seeking that, the video doesn’t specify other resources.
Mastering Bobbin Winding for Sashiko Choosing the Right Bobbin: Class 15 Blue Tint Class 15 bobbins are essential. The instructor points out a blue-tinted style she prefers because it’s easy to identify and has worked reliably for her. Regardless of tint, the key is high quality and smooth edges—this machine’s performance lives in the bobbin case, so the bobbin must be excellent.
Inspecting Your Bobbins for Smooth Operation Before you wind, run a fingernail around the bobbin’s edges. If you feel a hard ridge or bump from molding seams, that burr can snag thread inside the case. Snags lead to missed stitches or even jams. If a bobbin feels rough, don’t use it.
Step-by-Step Bobbin Winding Process 1) Place your thread spool on the top spindle and secure it with the spool cap. The cap helps thread feed evenly and prevents the thread from catching on spool edges. 2) Guide the thread through the upper hook and clip it into the tension guide—you should hear a reassuring snap. Then rest the thread in the small “horse” support.
3) Feed the thread end through one of the bobbin’s larger holes and take a few wraps so it isn’t floppy. Drop the bobbin onto the winder post and push the lever over.
4) Wind the bobbin. You can lift your foot off the pedal—the winder keeps going—just don’t walk away. If the thread hops out of that “horse,” it can wind underneath and make a mess.
5) When the bobbin is full, remove it and snip off the extra tail right at the bobbin. You want only one tail: the one feeding off the bobbin.
Watch out - The video specifically advises against using a side winder to wind bobbins for the Sashiko. Wind on a sewing machine winder instead.
Pro tip
- The instructor likes Maxi-Lock serger thread and shows that cones can work if you add a thread stand and guide the thread correctly. The video doesn’t specify exact thread weights; it simply demonstrates the setup option.
From cones to the winder Using larger cones? Set them on a separate thread stand behind the machine and route the thread through the same top path (clip and horse) before winding. This gives you more color and fiber options without changing the machine’s winding routine.
Prepping Your Machine and Bobbin Case Using Alternative Thread Spools (Maxi-Lock) As shown in the video, you can wind from serger cones with a thread stand; the path into the winding tension stays the same. This flexibility is useful if your favorite colors come on cones rather than small spools.
The “Doorbell” Method: Safely Opening the Bobbin Door Before opening the bobbin area, press and hold the needle up/down button—the instructor calls it the doorbell—until the “porch light” comes on. That indicates it’s safe to open the door and access the bobbin case.
Decoding the Bobbin Case: Bunny Ears and Tail Remove the bobbin case. It’s uniquely designed with a fuzzy “bunny tail” on top (some call it a mohawk) and two small holes on the other side—the “bunny ears.” The thread must pass through both ears. The video uses this nickname purely as a memory aid.
Seamless Bobbin Case Insertion Clockwise Spooling and C-Clamp Threading Insert the wound bobbin so the thread spools off clockwise. Pull the thread through the small C-clamp guide on the case and be sure it glides freely—this sets accurate tension for stitch formation.
Guiding Thread Through the “Bunny Ears” Starting from the back of the bobbin, guide the thread to the front through both ears. A cleanly cut thread end helps. This step is small but crucial—both ears must be threaded.
Head First: Correctly Seating the Bobbin Case Think like a rabbit heading into a burrow: ears go down first (head first), tail stays up. Inside the machine is a cutout where the ears sit and a silver flange that houses the tail. Angle the case toward you so the tail slides neatly behind the silver flange, then rotate it to the back so the ears click into place. Don’t push straight in—pushing can flatten the fuzzy tail, which the instructor says actually helps sweep the race and keep thread feeding smoothly.
Quick check
- Did you hear/feel the bobbin case click in? If not, remove it and try again.
- Is the tail upright behind the silver flange, not crushed?
- Do the ears sit in the cutout? If they’re off, reseat.
Finalizing the Threading Process Catching the Bobbin Thread with the Flywheel Turn the flywheel by hand once or twice until you see the thread appear on the machine bed. The needle should be up. Give the thread a gentle pull to confirm it moves smoothly—if it snags, the bobbin may be misthreaded or not seated.
Securing the Thread and Closing the Door Hold the thread with light tension in your left hand. Rotate the flywheel again so the machine’s hook (nicknamed Mr. Sassy) catches the thread in its “big toe.” Keep holding the thread as you close the bobbin door and catch the thread in the machine’s cutter. This keeps everything tidy and prevents unraveling as you start.
Tips for Managing Your Thread Tail You don’t have to cut the tail short. Leaving a longer tail can be handy if you need to secure the start of stitching or knot the tail later. The video notes that thread behavior can be contrary—so keeping an extra inch or two at the start can save time.
Watch out
- If the thread doesn’t get caught by the hook’s “big toe,” it’s not properly threaded. Recheck the bobbin case orientation and the path through the C-clamp and ears.
Troubleshooting Common Threading Issues Dealing with Missed Stitches and Jams
- Rough bobbin edges: A small burr can hold the thread and cause missed stitches or stalls. Always inspect bobbins by touch.
- Wrong bobbin type: The video emphasizes Class 15 bobbins for this machine. Non-Class-15 or poorly made bobbins can cause trouble.
- Flattened tail: If you pushed the case straight in and flattened the fuzzy tail, remove and reseat by “cranking” the case toward you first, then back.
- Winding problems: If the thread hopped off the top guide while winding, the bobbin may have hidden wraps underneath. Rewind a fresh bobbin.
When to Re-thread Your Machine
- The thread doesn’t appear when you turn the flywheel.
- You feel resistance when gently pulling the thread up.
- The hook doesn’t catch the thread in its “big toe.”
In any of these cases, close the door, press and hold the needle up/down button (doorbell) to light the porch light, then remove and reinsert the bobbin case following the exact path.
From the comments: quick answers
- Sidewinder use? A viewer asked, and the video’s instructor advises against using a side winder for the Sashiko. Wind on a sewing machine instead.
- Backlash disk? A brand representative referred to the thin metal disk in the bobbin case as a backlash disk. Its purpose is to keep the bobbin from coasting when you stop, which matters more at higher speeds.
- Which bobbins? Multiple commenters asked about part numbers and blue-tinted bobbins. The video specifies Class 15 and emphasizes quality and smooth edges; it doesn’t list a part number.
- Traditional sashiko on this machine? One commenter asked about it; the video doesn’t cover that topic.
- Looping underneath? A commenter requested help. The video doesn’t demonstrate this specific troubleshooting scenario; generally, re-check winding, bobbin case path, and seating.
- Buying online? A brand representative said to purchase through authorized retailers.
Pro tip If you walk away mid-wind, you risk the thread jumping the guide and wrapping beneath the bobbin. Stay within sight while winding.
Watch out Never force the bobbin case. If it doesn’t click in with the ears seated and the tail behind the flange, take it out and reset—pushing can deform the fuzzy tail and impact stitch pickup.
Quick check
- Class 15 bobbin? Smooth edges? One tail only?
- Doorbell pressed until the porch light turns on before opening the bobbin door?
- Clockwise spool-off in the case? Through C-clamp? Through both ears?
- Hook has the thread in its big toe before you start?
A note on broader embroidery gear This tutorial focuses on Sashiko threading. If you’re exploring other embroidery tools and frames for different machines, shop carefully—compatibility varies by brand and model, and the video doesn’t specify any of these accessories. If you’re comparing options across brands, verify fit and size with your retailer. embroidery machine hoops
Planning expanded projects that mix techniques? Accessory ecosystems differ widely. Confirm your machine’s compatibility before purchasing frames or clamps not shown in this video. magnetic embroidery hoops
Some readers cross-shop between quilting/embroidery lines and Sashiko tools. That’s fine—just keep in mind that Sashiko’s bobbin-driven stitch formation is its own universe. magnetic hoop
If you also own other brands for embroidery work, remember that hoop and frame specs are brand-specific. Always check the exact model matches. brother embroidery machine
Likewise, if you run a dedicated embroidery setup in addition to Sashiko, align your accessory choices with the manufacturer’s guidance. janome embroidery machine
For Baby Lock owners exploring frames beyond Sashiko, confirm accessory fit and dimensions via an authorized retailer before investing. baby lock magnetic hoop
If you see “magnetic hoops” marketed broadly, note that Sashiko threading as shown here doesn’t involve those accessories; they’re for separate embroidery workflows. babylock magnetic hoops
And finally, if you’re browsing catch-all accessory lists online, check the fine print—names can be similar, but compatibility is not universal. baby lock magnetic hoops
From bobbin to beautiful stitches With a smooth Class 15 bobbin, a correctly threaded bobbin case (ears down, tail up), and that satisfying toe-catch on the flywheel turn, your Sashiko is set to stitch cleanly. When in doubt, slow down, retrace the exact path, and use the doorbell-porch-light cue before reopening. A few calm repetitions lock this sequence into muscle memory—so your next session feels easy.