6 Embroidery Tools Jordan Swears By—And the Real Reason They Fix Your Hooping, Trimming, and Placement Headaches

If you’re new to machine embroidery, the fastest way to level up isn’t buying “more stuff”—it’s buying the right small tools that remove the friction points that cause ruined blanks, wasted stabilizer, and that sinking feeling when a design shifts mid-stitch.

Embroidery is a game of physics and tension. As beginners, we often blame ourselves when a design puckers or a needle breaks, but after 20 years in this industry, I can tell you: 90% of "operator error" is actually just "inadequate tooling."

Jordan’s first “Hey Jordan” episode is a solid list of six tools he uses constantly in a real shop environment. I’m going to rebuild that list into a workflow you can actually follow at the machine—plus the “why” behind each tool, the common mistakes I see beginners make, and the upgrade path when you’re ready to stop fighting traditional hoops.

The Calm-Down Moment: Why “Small Tools” Prevent Big Embroidery Disasters on T-Shirts and Towels

Most beginners assume embroidery problems come from the machine. In practice, a lot of the mess comes from three places involving physics and mechanics:

• Hooping that isn’t stable enough (fabric creeps under tension, stabilizer shifts, design lands off-center).
• Trimming that isn’t precise enough (appliqué looks jagged, you cut the base fabric, or you can’t reach tight corners).
• Marking and placement that isn’t repeatable (crosshairs linger, alignment drifts, you waste expensive blanks).

Jordan’s list targets those exact pain points with tools that are cheap compared to re-stitching a hoodie front or tossing a premium towel.

One comment under the video hit a very real frustration: multi-needle users noticing designs landing off-center compared to a single-needle workflow. Jordan’s reply was telling—sometimes it’s a trial placement issue, and sometimes your X/Y axis may be off. That’s not a “buy a new machine” problem; it’s usually a process problem.

If you want a placement workflow that’s consistent, you need two things:

1. A marking method you can erase instantly (so you don’t “settle” for slightly wrong).
2. A hooping method that holds tension evenly (so the fabric doesn’t relax distinctively after you clamp it).

That’s where the tools below shine.

The “Hidden” Prep Jordan Doesn’t Say Out Loud: Set Up Your Table Like a Shop, Not a Craft Night

Before you touch a hoop screw or spray adhesive, set yourself up so you’re not improvising mid-job. Professional shops don't rely on luck; they rely on protocol.

Prep Checklist (do this before you mark or hoop)

• Verify Material Physics: Confirm your blank type (Jordan specifically mentions T-shirts and towels). Rule of thumb: If it stretches (Is it a knit?), use a Cutaway stabilizer. If it has loft (Is it a towel?), you must use a water-soluble topping.
• Pre-Cut to Size: Pre-cut stabilizer and topping so you’re not tugging at the hoop later. The stabilizer should extend at least 1 inch beyond the hoop edges on all sides.
• Stage the "Near-Needle" Zone: Keep a dedicated tool zone within arm's reach: turning tool, small scissors, tweezers, and a lint brush.
• Safety Check: Keep marking tools capped and away from spray adhesive overspray zones to prevent permanent ink setting.
• Mechanical Hygiene: Do a quick visual check around the needle area for lint buildup (especially under the bobbin case and feed dogs). Sensory Check: If you blow on the bobbin area and a cloud of dust appears, clean it immediately.

This prep matters because most “mystery” issues are really workflow issues: you rush hooping, you chase shifting topping with your fingers, and you end up with puckers or a bird’s nest.

Warning: Never put your fingers near the needle while the machine is running. The needle moves faster than your reaction time. If you need to hold topping down or guide fabric, use a tool (like the turning tool Jordan demonstrates) and keep your hands out of the strike zone.

Use the RNK Premium Turning Tool Like a Stiletto—Without Puncturing Fabric or Your Fingers

Jordan’s #1 pick is the RNK turning tool. The obvious use is pushing corners out on sewn projects, but the real embroidery value is how he uses it at the machine. It acts as a safe extension of your fingers.

What Jordan demonstrates

• The tool is sturdy (not flimsy wire).
• It has a small ball tip rather than a needle point, which lets you apply pressure to push corners without stabbing through the weave of the fabric.
• He uses it like a stiletto to smooth or hold down material when water-soluble topping starts to bunch.
• He also uses it to clean lint around the bobbin case area and even under the feed dogs.
  
  
  

How to use it during stitching (the safe, repeatable way)

1. Pause the machine if you’re new or if you see the topping starting to bubble or lift.
2. Hold the turning tool like a pencil, with your hand resting safely on the machine bed or outer hoop edge.
3. Use the tip to gently press the topping/fabric flat just ahead of the needle path—never directly under the needle.
4. Resume stitching and keep the tool as your “third hand,” guiding material without pulling or stretching it.

Expected outcome

• Topping stays flat instead of folding into the stitch field.
• You stop the dangerous habit of reaching in with your fingers.
• You reduce the chance of the stabilizer/fabric shifting from panic-adjustments.

The expert “why” (physics you can feel)

Fabric and topping don’t just “sit there”—they respond to friction, needle penetration, and the tiny push-pull forces of the stitch cycle. When topping starts to bunch, your instinct is to grab it. That grab introduces uneven tension and can distort the stitch field. A stiletto-style tool lets you apply localized downward control without stretching the fabric.

If you’re building a kit for standard or machine embroidery hoops, this turning tool is one of those “small” items that prevents big hooping-related headaches because it keeps you from disturbing the hoop sandwich mid-run.

Get Clean Appliqué Points with Karen K Buckley Curved Micro-Serrated Scissors (Where Duckbills Fail)

Jordan’s #2 pick is the Karen K Buckley Perfect Scissors with curved red handles. He calls out the micro-serrated blade and the sharp point—two features that matter more than brand names.

What Jordan demonstrates

• Micro-serrated blades grip the fabric so it doesn’t push away as you close the blades.
• Curved, sharp-point scissors can reach tight appliqué corners that larger scissors miss.
• Duckbill scissors behave well on straight lines but are often too bulky for intricate points.

How to trim appliqué without “chewing” the edge

1. Stitch your appliqué placement and tack-down lines as usual.
2. Hold the scissors so the curve faces away from the appliqué fabric (spooning the curve) to get close to the stitching without cutting it.
3. Micro-Step: Make short, controlled snips (using only the top 1/3 of the blade)—don’t try to cut long arcs in one motion.
4. Key Technique: Rotate the hoop or fabric, not your wrist, to keep the cut angle consistent.
5. Sensory Check: You should hear a crisp, gritty "crunch" sound as the serrations bite the fabric. If it feels mushy, your tension on the blades is wrong.

Expected outcome

• Cleaner points and tighter curves.
• Less accidental cutting into the base fabric.
• Faster trimming because the fabric doesn’t slip away from the blades.

Comment-driven pro tip: sharpening scissors (without ruining them)

A viewer asked how to sharpen Kai scissors. The channel replied that they use a Fiskars sharpener and noted it’s harder on large scissors but works well on others. That’s a practical reminder: sharpeners can be convenient, but they’re not one-size-fits-all. Serrated scissors are notoriously difficult to sharpen at home without grinding off the serrations. Expert advice: Keep your best micro-serrated scissors reserved strictly for fabric only to prolong their life, and buy a backup pair.

If you’re doing production-style appliqué (multiple pieces, tight corners), this is one of the first tools that pays you back in time saved.

Mark, Stitch, Erase in Seconds: Clover Air Erasable Pen with the Built-In Eraser

Jordan’s #3 pick is the Clover air erasable marking pen—specifically the version with the eraser on the end. He mentions it comes in purple, blue, and pink, and that he uses it constantly for marking.

What Jordan demonstrates

• The pen itself looks standard, but the ink chemistry allows for immediate correction.
• The eraser is the feature that makes it production-friendly.
• He uses it when he needs crosshairs gone immediately (videos, shop work, classes) rather than waiting for air drying or washing.

How to use it for placement without committing to a bad mark

1. Mark your crosshair or placement line lightly using a ruler.
2. Hoop and align the garment.
3. Critical Step: Visually check the hoop against your machine's laser guide or physical center.
4. If the mark is even 2mm off, use the eraser to wipe it instantly and re-mark. Don’t “hope it stitches out fine.”

Expected outcome

• Faster placement corrections.
• Cleaner photos and finished goods (no lingering crosshair ink hidden in the weave).

The expert “why” (placement discipline)

Off-center embroidery is often a chain reaction: a slightly off mark leads to a slightly off hoop, then the fabric relaxes, and suddenly your design is visible shifted. A pen you can erase instantly encourages you to adjust now—before thread hits fabric.

If you’re building a repeatable workflow around a hooping station for machine embroidery, an erasable marking system is the safeguard that keeps your station from becoming a “fast way to be wrong.” It allows for rapid iteration until perfection is achieved.

Stop Fighting Hoop Screws: Baby Lock Hoop Screwdriver for Arthritis, Weak Hands, and Popped Projects

Jordan’s first honorable mention is the Baby Lock hoop screwdriver. He’s clear: he doesn’t personally use it a ton due to his grip strength, but he sells a lot because it solves a real problem—getting the hoop tight enough without pain.

What Jordan demonstrates

• The flathead bit fits onto the hoop screw and locks in place.
• The long handle gives massive leverage for torque.
• If the hoop isn’t tight enough, the hoop can loosen via vibration, causing the project to "pop out."

How tight is “tight enough” (without damaging fabric)?

You want the fabric to be held firmly so it can’t creep during low-speed or high-speed stitching. However, overtightening typically causes “hoop burn” (crushed fibers).

A practical test (The Drum Skin Test):

• After tightening, gently tap the fabric. It should sound relatively taut.
• Try to move the fabric with a fingertip. It should feel stable, not slippery.
• Visual Check: The weave should not look distorted or stretched out of shape (especially on knits). If the grid of the fabric looks curved, you've over-stretched.

Expected outcome

• Fewer popped hoops.
• Less shifting and fewer registration issues (gaps between outlines and fill).

The expert upgrade path (when a screwdriver still isn’t enough)

If you’re constantly fighting hoop screws—especially on thicker items like Carhartt jackets, awkward seams, or when you’re hooping all day—this is where upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops becomes a serious business decision. In many cases, magnetic frames reduce the “hand strength” barrier entirely. They clamp fabric automatically without the need to twist a screw for every single garment, dramatically reducing wrist fatigue.

Warning: Magnetic frames generate significant force. Keep magnets away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices. Keep fingers clear of the clamping zone (pinch hazard). Store strong magnets away from phones, credit cards, and sensitive electronics.

For home single-needle users who struggle with hoop burn or hooping thick seams, a magnetic hoop can be the difference between “I dread hooping” and “I can actually finish orders.” For production, it’s often about cycle time.

Use Sulky KK 2000 Temporary Adhesive Spray (and Don’t Use Quilt Basting Spray)

Jordan’s next honorable mention is Sulky KK 2000 temporary adhesive spray. He’s blunt about why: many sprays gum up needles, stain, or leave tacky residue—this one doesn’t, and it’s necessary when floating stabilizer.

What Jordan demonstrates

• It’s used for sticking stabilizers or toppings to fabric.
• It’s air-soluble (disappears over time).
• It doesn’t gum up needles or leave sticky residue like quilt basting sprays.
• He specifically warns: do not use quilt basting spray for embroidery.

How to use temporary spray without making a mess

1. Distance Rule: Spray away from your machine—overspray gets into the motor and electronics. Use a cardboard box as a spray booth.
2. Apply a light, even coat—more spray doesn’t mean more control; it means more mess.
3. Wait 3-5 seconds after spraying for the propellant to evaporate before sticking.
4. Press stabilizer/topping into place smoothly; don’t stretch knits as you adhere them.

Expected outcome

• Stabilizer stays where you put it.
• Less shifting during hooping.
• Cleaner needle performance compared to the wrong spray.

The expert “why” (needle gumming and stitch quality)

When improper adhesive transfers to the needle, friction increases exponentially. That leads to heat, residue buildup in the needle eye, and thread shredding. Even if the machine keeps running, your stitch quality can quietly degrade.

If you’re trying to streamline your setup for magnetic hoops for embroidery machines, temporary spray is still useful in many workflows regarding stabilizer. While magnets hold the hoop sandwich efficiently, a light mist of spray keeps your backing from drifting during the initial placement.

Cut and Place Like a Pro: The Carolina Sew-n-Vac 6x24 Non-Slip Ruler with Safety Shield and 1-Inch Grid

Jordan’s last tool is a custom ruler his shop uses daily. He highlights three features that matter in real production: non-slip backing, a sturdy handle, and a safety shield for rotary cutting. He also points out the 1-inch grid for alignment.

What Jordan demonstrates

• Sticky pads on the bottom keep it from sliding on slippery production tables.
• A durable handle helps with control.
• A vertical safety shield helps prevent rotary cutters from jumping the edge and nicking fingers.
• A 1-inch grid helps with consistent centering and placement validation.

Why rulers matter in embroidery (not just quilting)

A good ruler isn’t about cutting straight lines—it’s about repeatable placement. If you’re markings a shirt front, the grid helps you land the design consistently 3 inches down from the collar, across sizes and reorders.

Warning: Rotary cutters can slip faster than you can react. Use a ruler with a safety shield when possible, keep your non-cutting hand strictly behind the guard, and retract/cover the blade immediately after each cut.

Setup Checklist (placement + cutting station)

• Clean Surface: Place your ruler on a clean, flat surface (lint under the ruler defeats the “non-slip” grip).
• Blade Check: Keep your rotary cutter blade fresh; dull blades force you to apply unsafe pressure, increasing slip risk.
• Orientation: Use the ruler grid to align garment centerlines vertical to the table edge before you mark.
• Marking Process: Mark lightly first; confirm alignment visually; then darken the mark if needed.
• Maintenance: Keep spray adhesive far from the ruler’s gripping surfaces to preserve traction.

A viewer commented they really liked the ruler—and I get it. In a shop, a stable ruler is one of those “boring” tools that quietly saves hours of rework.

Fix the Two Most Common Beginner Problems: Off-Center Designs and Bunching Under the Needle

Jordan’s video includes quick troubleshooting points that map directly to what beginners struggle with. Here is a matrix to help you diagnose faster.

Symptom → Likley Cause → Immediate Fix

Comment-driven “off-center” reality check (single-needle vs multi-needle)

A commenter said designs were off-center on an Endurance 2 compared to an Alliance single-needle. The channel replied it could be trial placement or X/Y axis being off.

Here’s the practical workflow I recommend before you assume something is broken mechanically:

• Run a test stitch-out on scrap fabric with a clearly marked center crosshair.
• Confirm your hoop template/placement method is consistent.
• Diagnostic: If the offset is consistent in the exact same direction every time (e.g., always 3mm to the left), it may be an axis calibration issue—check your machine settings first.

If you’re trying to scale, a consistent placement system matters as much as the machine itself.

The Decision Tree I Use in Shops: Stabilizer + Hooping Choices That Prevent Shifting (and Save Money)

You don’t need a complicated chart—just a decision tree that keeps you from guessing.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer Approach → Hooping Method

1. Are you stitching on a stable woven (like quilting cotton or denim)?
   • Stabilizer: Tear-away is usually sufficient.
   • Hooping: Standard hoops work well if you tension evenly.
2. Are you stitching on a knit (performance tees, polo shirts)?
   • Stabilizer: You must use Cutaway to support the stitches permanently.
   • Hooping: Knits are prone to "hoop burn." If you frequently see ring marks or struggle with stretching, consider an embroidery magnetic hoop as a quality upgrade to reduce material stress.
3. Are you stitching on a towel or anything with loft (fleece)?
   • Stabilizer: Tear-away on bottom + Water Soluble Topping on top.
   • Hooping: Hooping thick items is physically difficult. Use the turning tool to manage topping. Consider temporary spray to float the item if it's too thick to hoop.
4. Do you struggle to tighten hoop screws (arthritis/weak grip) or are you hooping all day?
   • Traditional fix: Hoop screwdriver for leverage.
   • Upgrade path: Specifically designed magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines (or the correct magnetic frame for your machine brand) can reduce hand strain and speed up the process by 50%.
5. Are you doing repeat orders or batch work (e.g., 50 left-chest logos)?
   • Workflow: If you’re aligning the same logo 20 times, precise placement becomes the bottleneck. A station-based workflow like a hoop master embroidery hooping station can improve repeatability—especially when paired with the erasable marking pen.

The Upgrade Conversation Nobody Wants to Have: When Tools Aren’t Enough and You Need a Faster Hooping System

Jordan’s list is perfect for beginners because it removes the most common friction points. But if you’re starting to take paid orders, your bottleneck usually shifts from "how do I do this?" to "how do I do this faster?"

Here’s the “tool upgrade path” I recommend, using a simple trigger → standard → options logic:

• Scenario Trigger: You’re spending more time hooping and measuring than actually stitching, or your hands physically ache after a session.
• Judgment Standard: If you can’t hoop consistently tight without over-stretching the fabric, or you are re-hooping more than once per item due to alignment errors.
• Options for Growth:
  • Level 1: Stay with screw hoops + screwdriver if you’re doing occasional custom projects.
  • Level 2: Move to a dedicated magnetic hooping station workflow when repeatability and speed are critical for profitability.
  • Level 3: If you’re scaling into real batch production, combining a multi-needle platform with magnetic frames allows you to hoop the next garment while the previous one stitches.

This isn’t about buying gear for fun—it’s about removing the manual steps that cause rework and fatigue.

Operation Checklist (the “don’t ruin it at the last minute” routine)

• Mark: Mark placement with the erasable pen; verify vertical alignment.
• Hoop: Hoop firmly and evenly; use the hoop screwdriver or magnetic frame to secure.
• Spray: Use temporary spray appropriately for stabilizer/topping placement (always away from the machine).
• Tool Check: Keep the turning tool within reach to manage topping safely during stitching.
• Trim: Trim appliqué with micro-serrated curved scissors using short, controlled snips.
• Post-Run: After the run, do a quick lint check around the bobbin case and feed dogs area to keep the next run clean.

If you build these habits early, you’ll waste fewer blanks, your stitch-outs will look cleaner, and you’ll feel in control of the process instead of reacting to problems mid-design.

FAQ

• Q: How can a machine embroidery beginner prevent water-soluble topping from bunching under the needle on towels and other lofty fabrics?
  A: Pause stitching and use a stiletto-style turning tool to press the topping flat ahead of the needle path instead of grabbing it with fingers.
  • Pause the machine as soon as the topping starts to bubble or lift.
  • Hold the turning tool like a pencil and rest your hand on the machine bed or outer hoop edge for stability.
  • Press the topping down just in front of the needle travel path; never place the tool directly under the needle.
  • Success check: The topping stays flat and feeds smoothly with no new folds forming into the stitch field.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hoop stability and consider lightly securing the topping/stabilizer so it cannot drift during placement.
• Q: What is the safest way to control fabric near the needle on a multi-needle embroidery machine without risking finger strikes?
  A: Keep hands out of the strike zone and use a turning tool as a “third hand” whenever material needs guidance near the needle.
  • Stop or pause the machine before making any adjustment if skill level is beginner or visibility is poor.
  • Use a ball-tip turning tool to hold topping or fabric down near (not under) the needle path.
  • Rest the working hand on a stable surface (machine bed or hoop edge) to prevent sudden slips.
  • Success check: Adjustments are made with the tool only, and fingers never enter the needle area while the machine is running.
  • If it still fails: Slow down the workflow and reposition/secure the topping before stitching resumes.
• Q: How tight should a traditional embroidery hoop screw be to prevent fabric shifting without causing hoop burn on knits and T-shirts?
  A: Tighten to firm, even tension using the drum-skin test, and stop before the fabric weave looks distorted.
  • Tighten until the fabric feels stable and cannot easily creep with a fingertip during low-speed movement.
  • Tap the hooped fabric to confirm it sounds relatively taut (not floppy).
  • Watch the fabric grain/weave—if it looks stretched or warped, back off slightly to avoid hoop burn.
  • Success check: The fabric stays stable during stitching and shows minimal ring marks after unhooping.
  • If it still fails: Add grip to the inner ring (often by wrapping) or move up to a magnetic hoop to distribute holding pressure more evenly.
• Q: How can Baby Lock hoop screwdriver-style tools help prevent embroidery projects from popping out of the hoop during stitching?
  A: Use a hoop screwdriver to apply consistent torque so the hoop screw does not loosen from vibration mid-run.
  • Seat the flathead bit fully on the hoop screw before turning.
  • Tighten in small increments and re-check tension after the first few stitches if vibration is noticeable.
  • Avoid overtightening that crushes fibers; aim for firm hold without distortion.
  • Success check: The hoop remains secure through the run and the fabric does not walk or slip under stitch tension.
  • If it still fails: Improve hoop grip (reduce slipperiness) or switch to a magnetic hoop system when screw-hoop consistency is the bottleneck.
• Q: Why should Sulky KK 2000 temporary adhesive spray be used for machine embroidery stabilizer floating instead of quilt basting spray?
  A: Use an embroidery-appropriate temporary spray like Sulky KK 2000 because some quilt basting sprays can gum needles, stain, or leave residue.
  • Spray away from the embroidery machine to prevent overspray entering electronics; use a cardboard box as a spray area.
  • Apply a light, even coat and wait a few seconds for propellant to evaporate before bonding.
  • Press stabilizer/topping into place smoothly without stretching knit fabrics.
  • Success check: The needle stays clean (no sticky buildup) and the stabilizer/topping stays positioned during placement and early stitching.
  • If it still fails: Clean the needle with alcohol and reduce spray amount; residue often comes from overspray or using the wrong product.
• Q: How can Clover air-erasable marking pens with built-in erasers reduce off-center embroidery placement on shirts and reorders?
  A: Use an erasable marking system so placement lines can be corrected immediately instead of “settling” for a slightly wrong center.
  • Mark crosshairs lightly with a ruler before hooping.
  • Align the hoop to the machine’s physical center or guide, then re-check visually before stitching.
  • Erase and re-mark instantly if the placement is even a couple millimeters off.
  • Success check: The hoop center and the marked crosshair agree before the first stitch, and re-hooping becomes rare.
  • If it still fails: Run a test stitch-out on scrap with a clearly marked center to confirm whether the offset is consistent (process issue) or consistently directional (possible axis setting/calibration check per machine manual).
• Q: What safety rules should users follow when switching from screw hoops to magnetic embroidery hoops in a production workflow?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as high-force clamping tools and control pinch zones while keeping magnets away from sensitive medical devices and electronics.
  • Keep fingers fully clear of the clamping area when closing the magnetic frame (pinch hazard).
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices.
  • Store magnets away from phones, credit cards, and sensitive electronics.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without finger contact in the clamp path, and the fabric is secured evenly without repeated re-hooping.
  • If it still fails: Slow down the clamping motion and re-train the hand position—most pinches come from rushing the close.