Woman standing in front of an embroidery machine presenting materials for embroidering stretchy fabric.

Mastering Embroidery on Stretchy Fabrics: Tips from Ricoma

Stretchy polyester fabrics can intimidate even seasoned embroiderers. This Ricoma video breaks down every step—from choosing a no-show cutaway stabilizer to hooping tension—to produce flawless, pucker-free stitches on performance wear. Learn the proven techniques that keep your embroidery soft, flexible, and professional-looking.

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Table of Contents
  1. Understanding Stretchy Fabrics in Embroidery
  2. Choosing the Right Stabilizer for Performance Wear
  3. The Importance of Hoop Selection
  4. Needle Know-How: Ballpoint vs. Sharp Point
  5. Thread Considerations for Activewear
  6. The Magic of Temporary Adhesive Spray
  7. Step-by-Step Hooping and Embroidery Process
  8. Achieving Perfect Results: Finishing Touches

Understanding Stretchy Fabrics in Embroidery

Polyester knits and performance blends behave elastically, stretching in multiple directions. That makes them fantastic for activewear—but tricky for embroidery. The base fabric rebounds once unhooped, creating ripples known as puckering. Before diving into stitches, Ricoma’s host demonstrates these distortions using a plain polyester shirt

Woman standing in front of an embroidery machine presenting materials for embroidering stretchy fabric.
The host introduces the embroidery setup with performance wear materials.

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Common Challenges: Pinching and Puckering

Pull the fabric too tight, and stitches compress; too loose, and threads nest beneath the hoop. The sweet spot is steady yet relaxed tension

Holding light blue stretchy polyester t-shirt.
Highlighting the stretch and feel of performance wear fabric.

. It’s one reason many embroiderers explore improved frame systems such as magnetic hoops for brother embroidery machines for finer tension control while hooping comparable materials.

Choosing the Right Stabilizer for Performance Wear

The tutorial highlights the no-show cutaway stabilizer

Holding a no-show cutaway stabilizer.
The soft no-show cutaway stabilizer offers support with drape.

. It’s lightweight, soft, and strong—perfect for delicate polys and knits. Heavier cutaways can make garments stiff or “blocky.”

Why No-Show Cutaway is Best

As seen in action, the soft mesh backing supports every stitch without adding visible bulk. Using one layer is sufficient; stacking layers defeats the fabric’s natural drape. Viewers confirmed this in comments, where Ricoma noted only a single sheet was used.

Balancing Support and Drape

Imagine an invisible structure that holds stitches yet flows like the garment itself. That’s the art of stabilization. Pairing softer backing with even hoop tension prevents distortion, especially for dense logos on athletic shirts. Crafters using commercial models—say a bai embroidery machine or similar—can apply identical stabilizer logic regardless of brand.

The Importance of Hoop Selection

A hoop slightly larger than usual minimizes inner-frame stretch

Woman holding rectangular embroidery hoop.
Choosing a slightly larger hoop keeps the fabric stable.

. With more fabric surface distributed around the rim, the center area resists deformation.

Going a Size Up

Larger hoops do more than comfort: they prevent “bounce-back” once the garment’s elasticity contracts post-stitch. Some embroiderers switch between plastic and magnetic frames like mighty hoops for ricoma when working with thick athletic materials because magnets give smooth hold without overtightening.

Minimizing Fabric Distortion

Whether you work on single-needle or multi-head machines, ensure consistency by checking tension across the hoop. A quick thumb press should reveal stability—not stretch.

Needle Know-How: Ballpoint vs. Sharp Point

The smallest detail—a rounded needle tip—makes or breaks stretch projects

Holding a pack of ballpoint needles.
Ballpoint needles glide through stretch fibers without damage.

. Ricoma specifies the 75/11 ballpoint, identified by FFG/SES when sourced from Groz-Beckert

Close-up Groz-Beckert FFG/SES marking.
Identifying ballpoint embroidery needles correctly.

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Preventing Holes and Damage

Unlike sharps that pierce threads, ballpoints slip between fibers. The result: no snags, no visible holes. Comment threads show many beginners confuse sewing-machine “ballpoint” with embroidery-grade types; always verify it’s made for embroidery.

Identifying Groz-Beckert Ballpoint Needles

Those FFG/SES markings confirm the correct profile. It’s a reassuring sign on any system—from Ricoma setups to mighty hoops for brother pr1055x attachments—that your fabric stays intact through heavy runs.

Thread Considerations for Activewear

Polyester threads shine under repetitive cycles of washing, stretching, and UV exposure

. Ricoma used 40 wt on top, 60 wt in the bobbin. These weights deliver density without stiffness.

Durability with Polyester Thread

Polyester maintains colorfastness and flexibility better than viscose, making it ideal for fitness apparel. If you notice overly rigid results, check both thread weight and stitch density before switching materials.

💡 Choose shades that blend with garment hues so minor stretch around letters stays visually seamless. Embroidery fans who rely on magnetic embroidery hoops report steadier thread lay at high speeds.

The Magic of Temporary Adhesive Spray

To keep the soft knit steady, a gentle mist of Fast Tack 97 covers the stabilizer evenly

Can of Fast Tack 97 adhesive spray.
Temporary adhesive provides extra fabric stability.

. Adhesive adds friction but no weight. The key lies in moderation—light coverage prevents gummy needles

Spraying adhesive onto stabilizer.
Applying spray evenly on no-show cutaway backing.

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Enhancing Stability During Hooping

This technique is ideal when hooping directly over curved or slippery textures. Larger production houses—even those using magnetic hoop for brother se2000 units—value spray methods for maintaining precision on flexible garments.

Step-by-Step Hooping and Embroidery Process

After applying adhesive, slide the stabilizer under the shirt

Placing stabilizer under fabric on table.
Setting stabilizer beneath the shirt before hooping.

. Keep the surface smooth, then position the bottom ring. Lower the top gently without tugging. The balance between “not too tight” and “not too loose” defines success

Overhead view hooping blue t-shirt.
Evenly hooping ensures clean results with stretch fabric.
Close-up securing top ring of hoop.
Avoid overtightening during hoop placement.

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Applying Adhesive and Positioning

A single piece of backer bonded lightly to fabric holds everything still until stitching completes.

Hooping without Overstretching

Leave stretch to the machine movement, not your hands. Flatten creases with fingers only—no pulling. Some prefer test tracing before stitching

Machine arm lowering to hooped garment.
Machine ready for tracing and stitching.
Embroidery machine tracing design with light.
Pre-stitching trace confirms design position.

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Machine Setup and Tracing

Once the machine arm descends and traces the outline with its guide light, hit start

Close-up of active stitching.
Actual embroidery of the performance shirt.

. That preview ensures alignment before needles drop.

✅ The first color run should reveal consistent tension across the area. If you spot bubbling, pause immediately and re-hoop. Multi-needle users—from Ricoma to barudan embroidery machine hoops—benefit from pre-trace verification.

Achieving Perfect Results: Finishing Touches

When stitching ends, release the hoop

Close-up of finished embroidery.
Smooth final design with zero puckering.

. Trim stabilizer close—about three-quarters of an inch—to keep comfort against skin. After one wash, backing softens further, leaving a clean drape.

Careful Unhooping

Work slowly, letting the frame expand naturally before lifting fabric. Sudden motion can still stretch stitches.

Trimming the Stabilizer

Sharp scissors safeguard fabric edges. Mind that you never cut threads underneath.

The Final Look: No Puckering!

The finished shirt remains smooth, flexible, and professional—proof that careful preparation conquers even the trickiest athletic knits. Commenters attest results improve immediately once adopting ballpoint needles and balanced hooping.

> From the comments: Many crafters noted success replicating these tips on machines beyond Ricoma, including Brother and BAI models. The underlying principle stays universal: stabilize, hoop smart, and stitch gently.

Wrap-Up

Stretch fabrics require patience and awareness of tension. With these steps—proper stabilizer, larger hoop, ballpoint needle, and light adhesive—you achieve flawless embroidery that moves as gracefully as the garment itself.

If you’re experimenting on different machines or magnetic frames, explore systems like magnetic embroidery hoops for bernina or mighty hoops for tajima—the ergonomic principles mirror what Ricoma demonstrates here.

Happy stitching—and remember, flexible fabric deserves flexible thinking!