Table of Contents
- Introduction to the Kenmore 385 and Common Jamming Issues
- The Bobbin Dilemma: Plastic vs. Metal and Magnet Interaction
- Inspecting and Smoothing Burrs: Hook and Presser Foot
- Thread Matters: Understanding the Thread Gap and Proper Thread Selection
- Careful Reassembly and Threading
- Final Checks for Jam-Free Sewing
Introduction to the Kenmore 385 and Common Jamming Issues
Kenmore 385 machines, built on a Janome-type platform, feature a drop-in bobbin system that’s usually reliable until a small oversight turns it stubborn. Owners often discover the culprit is either the wrong bobbin material or hidden burrs under the needle plate.
Identifying a Kenmore 385 (Janome Type) Machine
Its front drop-in bobbin design and magnetic base distinguish it from vertical-load models. If your plate lifts straight up and the bobbin sits beneath a clear cover, this guide applies to you.
Recognizing the Symptoms of Jamming
Uneven tension, nests of thread underneath, or the “tap-tap” of a misaligned hook all signal a maintenance call. Checking bobbin type and rough surfaces should be your first move.
The Bobbin Dilemma: Plastic vs. Metal and Magnet Interaction
One of Randy’s biggest reveals is that the Kenmore 385’s bobbin chamber hides a magnet designed to hold the case steady.
This tiny magnet demands a non-reactive (plastic) bobbin.
Why Plastic Bobbins are Crucial for Magnetic Housings
Plastic bobbins are inert—they don’t stick. Metal bobbins, however, cling to the magnet, warping tension and leading to inconsistent stitches.
How Metal Bobbins Disrupt Tension
When the magnetic field tugs a steel bobbin, it pulls against the thread’s natural movement. Over time, this imbalance compounds with vibration and causes skipped stitches or loops.
For anyone exploring advanced accessories later, consider how specialized settings—such as magnetic hoops for embroidery machines—also depend on balanced tension, even in embroidery contexts.
Inspecting and Smoothing Burrs: Hook and Presser Foot
Even with the right bobbin, needle impacts can scar your machine’s hook or foot, leaving microscopic burrs. These tiny ridges can snag the thread and cause minute tangles that snowball into jams.
Locating Needle Impact Burrs on the Hook
After removing the needle plate, run your fingertip around the hook’s circumference. Any snag—no matter how faint—needs attention. Burrs are most common where the needle meets the hook.
Filing and Polishing Rough Edges on the Hook and Presser Foot
Use a fine file or emery paper to gently level the raised areas, then polish with crocus cloth.
Randy emphasizes that depressions are harmless—it’s the raised metal that catches thread. The same applies to the back edge of the presser foot.
From the comments: One viewer confirmed that switching to a diamond file with light touch solved snag issues on the non-metal bobbin case. Another found a burr underneath the throat plate—a reminder to inspect hidden spots carefully.
If you enjoy tuning machines at this precision, you’d appreciate the accuracy offered by magnetic embroidery hoop systems, which hold fabric steady just as a smooth hook keeps tension even.
Thread Matters: Understanding the Thread Gap and Proper Thread Selection
Every sewing machine has a “thread gap”—the distance between the hook and the spring that lets the thread pass freely. On the Kenmore 385, this gap is calibrated for one thing: All-Purpose Dual Duty thread.
The Function of the Thread Gap and Spring
As the handwheel turns, thread sweeps through the small opening beside the bobbin case spring. If your thread is thicker, it binds here and flips the bobbin case upward, starting the dreaded jam.
Distinguishing ‘All-Purpose Dual Duty’ from Specialty Threads
Randy demonstrates the difference between everyday all-purpose spools and thicker quilting or “Buttons, Carpets & Crafts” types.
If the spool’s label is gone, test by twisting the filament—Dual Duty spins smoothly and stays tight.
For best results, use Dual Duty All-Purpose—thickness near five-thousandths of an inch.
From the community feedback, many sewers realized this simple thread swap instantly fixed long-standing looping. One viewer remarked how the all-purpose switch “made the bobbin problems vanish.”
For embroiderers experimenting with different machines, matching thread weight to design density is key—an insight equally vital when using mighty hoops or magnetic embroidery hoops to hold fabric without distorting stitches.
Careful Reassembly and Threading
After burr removal and thread evaluation, reassemble the machine carefully. Install the cleaned hook and drop the plastic bobbin in at the six o’clock position, letting it unwind counter-clockwise.
Correct Bobbin Installation: Counter-Clockwise and Seated
Hold a finger on the bobbin as you pull the thread across the tension slot, ensuring it seats firmly.
Replace the needle plate and tighten screws before threading the upper path.
Proper Upper Threading and Tension Check
Thread with the presser foot up. This opens the tension discs for proper placement. After threading, lower the foot and pull lightly—you should feel consistent resistance. Testing by hand before the first powered stitch prevents tangles.
In conversations online, Randy often reminds users that most malfunctions trace back to simple oversights in these three checks: thread, threading, needle. It’s a comforting truth even seasoned sewists sometimes forget.
If you’re branching into multi-needle or hybrid craft setups, you’ll find parallels between sewing tension checks and hoop calibration—whether positioning fabric in a magnetic hoop or securing garments with hoop master stations.
Final Checks for Jam-Free Sewing
With the machine closed up and tension confirmed, it’s time for one last ritual.
Locking the First Stitch by Hand
Always form the first stitch manually to prevent initial slack from knotting underneath. Hold both threads to the machine’s rear, lower the needle, and make one slow turn of the handwheel.
Testing Your Machine with Confidence
Now press the pedal and let the machine hum. The stitches should flow evenly, silky and balanced. Randy finishes with a grin: “All-Purpose Dual Duty works like a charm.”
From the comments: Several sewists shared triumphs—one after twenty-one years of frustration finally discovered metal bobbins were the hidden enemy. Another found that polishing a single burr turned her Kenmore from temperamental to trustworthy.
Machines and makers evolve, yet these mechanical truths stay constant: right materials, smooth surfaces, and steady tension. Apply them faithfully, and the hum of your repaired Kenmore 385 will remind you why we sew in the first place.
If you’re upgrading tools, maintaining precise tension across projects is vital—something equally ensured by advanced framing options like magnetic embroidery frame or the adaptable hoop master embroidery hooping station for embroidery setups.